Hi George,

When you run the engine at the speed which induces the "clatter", press the clutch down. If the noise stops or is significantly reduced then I would suspect a loose flywheel.

Location: Stretham

Hi George

A 1936 Ruby should have automatic advance on the distributor (DK4A), so if you have a lever on the steering column, this is non-original and is an alteration that someone has made.

If the timing is wrong, as others have said, the engine will rumble, the alteration that has been made may or may not be a problem, but I wonder why someone would revert from an automatic set-up to a manual adjustment, a retro-grade step back!

When checking the static timing, care needs to be exercised with the initial setting, the owners handbook (did not get updated...!) & much written info relates to cars with manual adjustment levers (which it sounds as if you have!), but for cars with the automatic advance, the position the flywheel has to be in is different, approximately 3/4" to 7/8" as measured back from the Top Dead Centre point (marked on the flywheel as 1/4, which means cylinders 1 & 4 are at the top of their stroke - make sure that the cylinder is on its compression stroke otherwise will be 180-degrees out), number 1 cylinder should be on the point of firing when looking at the points.

The assistance of a local owner & a methodical approach will help, have you thought about speaking to the previous owner? Might be worthwhile and you could ask about the advance/retard lever that was fitted.

Good luck, a photo of your set up would be interesting to see.

Location: Saltdean, Brighton

The previous owner seemed to have a general knowledge of 7's although he didn't seem to know this one too well as he had only owned it a year and he said he had done less than 10 miles in it during his ownership.

I have taken some pictures of my distributor setup, perhaps this will shed some light on whether I have the auto advance or not! I am very much learning as I go so all info is very helpful.

Thanks,
George





This is the lever on the steering column, ignore the aftermarket indicator switch!




This is the new distributor that came with the car:

Location: Cirencester, UK

Intrigued by the domestic plumbing arrangements from the side water inlet - where / what does the half inch copper pipe lead to on the nearside of the engine ?

The lever attached to the steering column would appear to be off a bike / lawnmower of some description, though the cable does appear to link to the distributor with a spring going forward toward the radiator. This is not as it would have been originally for a manual distributor, though as Gary has said, yours should be an auto advance distributor.

The new Bosch distributor will need some work before you can fit it, for a start the drive dog will need to be replaced by a drive gear - I believe new gears are available. The body may also need machining, if that hasn't already been done, I suspect it hasn't.

Jeff.

Location: Almost but not quite, the far North East of England

Location: Cirencester, UK

This post below and others - key 'Bosch Distributor' into the search box at the top of the page, give an indication of what needs to be done.

http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=2099944454&frmid=5&msgid=987821&cmd=show

I'd think most of the Cherished Suppliers will stock the new distributor drive gear - Austin Reproduction Parts have it at £22

From the depth of the body, the Lucas distributor fitted to your car does appear to be an auto advance unit, though whether the weights and their associated springs are working correctly is something that would need to be checked.

Jeff.

Location: Almost but not quite, the far North East of England

Here is a photo of my dizzy, this was re-built by Distributor Doctor, and yours should be the same, I can't see the purpose of that gubbins and if your distributor is properly secured (looks like all the bolts are there as they should be), then none of that will do anything, so you could safely remove that stuff.



Your dizzy should have a plaque on the side and if it has DK4A then it is the correct part for your car! Whether it works well or not is another matter!



There is plenty on the Forum regarding the Bosch distributor and you will have to make your own mind if that is the way to go. I put electronic ignition inside (Aldon), so I have dispensed with points & condensor, I am pleased with this set-up.

Given the arrangement on your car, the spare dizzy that came with it, it might be that the ignition timing would be a good place to start!

Location: Saltdean, Brighton

George on the aluminium dynamo/fan mount on the carb side should be a metal cover with two bolts securing it. If you loosen the bottom bolt and remove the top bolt you should be able to swing this out of the way, this will expose the dynamo gear and the camshaft gear. You can check the backlash on the camshaft/ crankshaft gears by rocking the pulley that drives the fan. Give the top dynamo gear a prod to see if it is secure, you can also twist it to see the backlash. By the colour of your fingers you should be able to tell if oil is getting in there as well. For saftey you may want to disconnect the battery to avoid the possibility of a geared finger. My dynamo gear had come loose and the noise is much less with it secured!
Good luck
Gordon

Location: Surrey United Kingdom

I doubt if spark timing is the cause, but it is something which often baffles newcomers.The topic is spread over a myriad posts and not all easily traced. Try “Piston BTDC query”.

For the old hands it is a non issue but those unfamiliar with the cars, vintage performance and vintage engine, it is a challenge. The two different original auto advance distributors, each with different static setting, the handbook blunder, the mixed and/or worn internals, substitute distributors, the altered heads, crs, etc complicate matters. For crank life the absolute minimum advance for no significant performance loss is the ideal. Those with manual systems can experiment underway. A lockable manual override is similarly convenient for sorting the basic auto advance setting, and it gives you something to play with on boring drives. Seems this is what you have. Possibly worth retaining until you become familiar with the car and its sounds. Performance must not be judged by noise. ¾ inch static advance was advised as conservative setting for 3/6 deg distributor and tdc for the 8/16 deg distributor, in original condition and conditions.

Bob Culver

Location: Auckland, NZ

Looking at the photographs of your dizzy & control lever it appears to me that some previous owner has made a modification to a auto advance dizzy to a manual one. My advice is take off the spring that goes forward towards the rad also the control wire that is attached to the stealing column. Take off the distributor base plate and check the bob weights. Put it all back together as an auto advance unit. Time up the ignition timing and see how it goes.

John Mason

Location: Nottinghamshire

All this talk of timing issues is,I think, a red herring.
Over advanced ignition would surely produce the loudest 'noise' at full throttle - car accelerating.
Without actually hearing the 'loud engine clatter', and from the OP's description, I would suspect big ends.
I sincerely hope I am wrong here.

Location: Bonnie Galloway

I would suggest big end problem.

Try removing one plug lead at a time on moderate revs to identify which rod it might be.

Agree with Dave W and Ruairidh - plenty of guessing about electrickery, but we're not really sure that's the problem. I'm not a doomsayer, but I'd be looking for something more mechanical. Sorry. Cheers, Bill in Oz.