There aren't many RHD A7's available here in the US (don't want a Bantam) but have found a 1934 A7. I wonder about how desirable they are? It seems all those that my friends have in the UK are the earlier models. Would I be making a mistake to buy the 1934 one?

1934 is a great year for practical road going Austin Sevens, you get the benefit of the later running gear, with a four speed box, with a touch of synchro, if that's your thing plus the choice of the early lines of the Box saloon or the (in my view) delicate lines of the Mark 1 Ruby...both are desirable in my book!

Location: Near Bicester.

There are rather a lot of Open Tourers in 1934.
A photo would be a great help.

Location: Wessex

There are rather a lot of Open Tourers in 1934.
A photo would be a great help.

Location: Wessex

Looks a pretty car. Longer wheelbase cars are a more comfortable drive too

Location: Farnham

At first view it looks a tidy car but the doors appear to be too short at the bottom and the running boards are wrong. Have you got any more photos?

Location: Gard, France 30960

Something very wrong with both the doors and running boards
at the very least I'm afraid.

Location: Wessex

Austin Sevens tend to be seriously addictive and '34 is a good year, combining practicality with the very end of the "vintage" look.

This car is pretty and may well make a great fun car, but don't touch it if you're looking for originality.

Look closely at Google images for "Austin Seven AJ Tourer" - the more you look, the more discrepancies you'll find. If the visible bits aren't right, then I'd strongly suspect that the parts you can't see may be questionable, too.

Location: Herefordshire, with an "E", not a "T".

The scuttle vents are on back to front too...

Location: Gard, France 30960

The incorrectly fitted headlamps are 'Butlers' as are the sidelights ugh!
Regards
Stuart

Location: Staffordshire: the creative county.

Best to avoid this one

Location: The Centre of the Universe

Looks like its been rebuilt with the wings and running boards too low? The step on the running boards to clear the rear crossmember.

I wouldn't discount it out of hand, but just accept that parts of it aren't going to satisfy the rivet police.(Mine doesn't either but whatever) It all depends on what you want, and what it's asking price is. The "errors" are all pardonable if the seller isn't asking concourse price for it. The red upholstery is a bit too much for my taste, but at the end of the day if you're happy with it, fine.

At first I was a bit wary of the doors because I have seen RP saloons with the roof cut off pretending to be 4 seat tourers, but the mouldings on the tub and scuttle seem to be correct.

If it drives OK and you've got the paperwork necessary to get it registered in the US then providing the price isn't daft then caveat emptor.

However, before you go down that road give us the chassis and engine numbers and the UK Reg if it's still there. We can then check it against the register.

Location: Gard, France 30960

George,

The answers to your question are very comprehensive- I don't know what the US rules are in relation to registering 'specials' but that is what you are looking at.

If as you indicate, you are looking for a genuine original Austin 7 - then
keep looking.

Pre 1930 cars are more valuable in UK and Australia, being true vintage, but as pointed out the early post 30 cars are still vintage looking at a lower price.

Tony.

Location: Malvern, Melbourne.

Enough registration is visible to see WJ 922? (Sheffield, first quarter of 1934). It isn't on the A7CA register, but then plenty aren't. The chassis number should be in the 19xxxx range.

Location: Herefordshire, with an "E", not a "T".

Chassis 190302

WJ9225

More photos added

As already advised, with all the visible issues you would have to be very cautious about those hidden beneath the cosmetic bling, not a great prospect for the inexperienced Seven owner IMHO...... You would be far better of with a good honest car even if it were a bit tatty, I would look for something well sorted that gets well used regularly...that is unless you just want to park it in the garage, polish it lovingly and take it out on the annual Santa parade!

Location: Auckland NZ

It looks like a pretty unanimous opinion on this particular car, George - Sorry!

Don't be put off buying a Seven. Keep looking and keep asking questions - that's what the Forum's for.

Location: Herefordshire, with an "E", not a "T".

George - don't be too disappointed with the well-meant criticisms, keep looking. One thing you've established - the 1934 cars are a very desirable model, so hopefully you'll come across a better example, even if you have to import it from UK. I have very great memories of driving an English friend's '34 saloon on the Eurotour ( 7 countries in Europe, including most of the highest passes in Austria, Switzerland etc). Admittedly it had been updated with Ruby brakes, but with the lighter weight, the vintage look, the sliding roof open all the way etc, it certainly sold me on the "Box types", whether they be saloons, tourers or roadsters. Cheers, Bill, Euroa, Australia.

Its interesting isn't it.

The front wings are not too low as you can see from the picture of the engine bay. Similarly neither are the rears!.

Looks just like a case that the running board is, the doors being the correct length.

The bottoms of the front wings look like they've been doctored.

That said, if you are restoring a car and have no reference, you do the best you can.

It could be far worse someone might have made a over length Ulster out of it!. It looks like a 100% pukka 4 seat tourer to me.

You see cars like this that are not quite 100% at shows all the time. Better they are on the road than 'special fodder'

Well, I wouldn't turn the car down because of any of the reasons mentioned. It's quite a smart, pretty little car.
Of course, the price will be the governing factor.
Going by current asked prices (ebay, Car and Classics etc., and assuming it runs as it should I would say that a fair ASKING price would be c.£8.000, to £10,000.
I put my hands up!

Location: Bonnie Galloway

Sorry, Dave. I have to disagree completely. This car has clearly had a huge amount of work done, which has resulted in some fairly major visible structural alterations and who knows what else that can't be seen.

I've seen a few like this in 40-plus years and without a very detailed inspection wouldn't value it as more than a collection of parts.

It's certainly not a car for a newcomer.

Location: Herefordshire, with an "E", not a "T".

Absolutely Martin, buying this car would be a very risky proposition..... but what do we know.

Location: Auckland NZ

No disrespect to George but what we in the U.K. seem to be concerned about is that a car be correct and authentic, or "stock" as they say in America. Stock cars are only prized by a relatively small proportion of the old car fraternity over there so it comes as no surprise to me that this one has been apparently cobbled together and presented as a 'restored' example. In fact, when ever an old car is dragged out of a barn where it has been stored for many years, the assumption seems to be to turn it into a hot rod of some kind so this one would seem to have got off quite lightly!

Location: Derby

George,
The good points are that the car has a chassis number which is correct for 1934, the Sheffield registration number is right for 1934 (my 1932 Box saloon my dad bought in 1936 is WJ32**) The engine compartment appears ok as far as the photos show,dashboard,most of the instruments and panel,steering wheel and column controls also. Things which need looking at by someone who is familiar with the high frame long wheelbase A7 are the shortened door and the bodywork under the door. If the work has been done to a good standard and is structurally sound how important would it be to you? I would be more concerned about the mechanical condition,engine,gearbox,axles front and rear. Headlamps and side lamps are a relatively minor concern and new or reconditioned ones to the correct pattern can be supplied by our cherished suppliers in the UK. The incorrect points above could be used to negotiate a reduction in price surely? The upholstery is a matter of personal taste and appears to be well executed and I could cope with it. It would make a change from boring black\dark blue\brown etc. Can't comment on the hood and its neatness as no photo shown.
Dave.

Location: Sheffield, City of Steel (Sorry, now City of Call Centres)

George - In case you think the Forum consists of pedantic knockers, not so. When a car appears as flash as this, it's natural to presume that the seller is asking for big gobs of folding stuff. What Friends are picking out are bargaining points to bring the price down to a sensible level to help you, because the general consensus is that a top price should only be asked if the car's also top in every respect. So Dave has made good sense. If you can't get expert advice on the mechanical condition, plus the price is brought down and you love the car, go for it. But on the other hand you have to be prepared to be aware of any deficiencies and to pay out when/if faults are found as you use it. The sums are up to you. Good Luck, Cheers, Bill in Oz

It also has to be remembered that the running boards simply bolt onto the front face of the cill, onto the top of the rear cross member and the front and back wings.

Having compared the pics to a 'standard' 4 seat tourer, I am convinced the doors are the correct length. IF they have been shortened, it is only a matter of fractions of an inch.

If the red section under the doors are actually part of the bolt on running board, and there seem to be tell tale join marks suggesting they are, then the only 'structural' modification carried out is to the lower portion of the front wings.

Personally I think members of the forum are wary of the Nick Poll factor, he was given sound advice, ignored it, then keeps coming on here moaning, which has got a number of backs up.

My opinion is that some of the advice on this thread has been over the top. Here is a photo of a pretty standard car, which displays pictorially the discrepancy in the front wings and running board.



It also has to be remembered that with a separate chassis the actual structural make up of the cill area is of no concequence.

Making a correct looking running board would be a very simple matter for any sheet metal worker, no matter how the restorer has accomplished his repairs. Repairs to the front wings would require a little more skill, personally I'd find another set, easily found over here, I've a pair of brand spankers here.

The running board repairs could be accomplished easily without requiring any repaint of the red finish. The front wing repairs would require partial or full repaint of those. No big deal.

If the price is right, and you also have to factor in the availability of austin 7 in your neck of the woods, go for it.

On another note, when I go home tonight, I'l look in my newly bought copy of Wyett to see what type of running board is shown. By posting you a picture, it will make your life much easier when inspecting the car.

I hope this has been a helpfull reply?

and of course, it IS red, if you like red.


Why not forward the seller the thread - it might make him drop his price a bit, or not?

The main thing is how desparate you are for a car and what YOU want in one. In US there is going to be different market as the supply is constrained and shipping a big consideration if you want something particular.

What I have found though is that where things deviate from the standard, it does mean more time is spent getting parts to get on happily together, when things go wrong or need replacement. That is either your time or someone you are paying.

Regarding the price, I have it on good authority that the asking price is well below my previous figure of 8/10 K.
If an offer of 10/15% less were to be accepted, It would be a bargain.
It is 2015 you know. You've only got to look at asking prices on Car and Classics for poor "Ulster" replicas to realise that this car is cheap. Assuming that it goes as good as it looks that is!
I like it.

Location: Bonnie Galloway

It's amazing the number of responses that I've received! Thank you all. I'm going to look at the car Friday so I'll take and post more pictures. Hopefully that will help clear up the issue with the running boards and the front wings. I will also report on how it drives.

Check out the tyre size - they should be 3.50 x 19, but these look much larger and could foul the wings when loaded and cornering.

Check the engine number. If original, it'll be within a few hundred of the chassis number (not necessarily matching). I think that it may have a slightly earlier engine, which doesn't actually matter, but may be another haggling tool.

If it's in good order and properly set up the steering will be very precise and it won't wander. The brakes aren't great, but it should pull up in a reasonable distance and a straight line. Ignore any myths to the contrary!

The only real vice is the clutch, which has dead travel of about 2", followed by a heavily-loaded active travel of about 1/2". A very sensitive foot is required to avoid kangaroo hops. This car should have syncromesh on third and top only and you're still better off double-declutching.

The engine shouldn't knock or rumble. Light ticking is OK and the clutch will hiss when disengaged. A synchro 'box shouldn't whine, although an earlier crash 'box will in 3rd and the back axle should be silent.

Good luck and enjoy it!

Location: Herefordshire, with an "E", not a "T".

Now I've seen the car. It is what you might expect of an older restoration-not great, but not too bad. The hood and upholstery are new. Paint maybe 10 years old Current owner did not know when the work was done. It runs fine, shifting is good, clutch good, steering good, tires correct size.. A handful of little things needs addressing, but nothing major except the running boards and front wings. The only explanation that I can come up with as to why the running boards have been lowered is that the front wings are replacements and are the wrong ones for this car. In order to match the running boards to the wings they were lowered. The last 8" of the running boards are correct and matches where it should to the rear wings. In the photos you can see where a piece of square tubing has been welded to the original mounting brackets in order to lower the running boards. Could be easily fixed with new front wings and running boards.
Where is the chassis number located?

George,
I have a feeling that the running boards when they were replaced are from an earlier short wheelbase case car, which was 6" shorter. If someone with a similar tourer could measure their's then it would confirm my theory.
If that is the case then if the front wings were raised you could fit standard long wheelbase running boards.
Hope this is of help,
regards,
Robert.

Location: Deepest darkest Kent.

Robert,
I don't think there is enough room to raise the front wings. They are about as high as they can go. I wonder it the wings are off of a shorter car?
Thanks,
George

Martin,
The tires are 3.50 x 19. See the picture I posted of the engine number. The chassis is 190302 and the engine number is M173394. Where is the chassis number found on the car?
Thanks,
George

Chassis number should be a couple of inches behind the rearmost near side engine mount. As expected, engine is earlier than the chassis. Not that it matters much, but it's worth knowing. There's definitely been something done to the wings and running boards.

Location: Currently St. Valery Sur Somme

I have just measured my original Ruby running boards and the are 36,1/2 inches outside to outside , in your fourth photo down the bracket with 2 holes is for the brake light switch which is missing but still available.

I suspect what has happened is that the lower portions of the front wings have corroded away and been replaced by a new section, which unfortunately wasn't done to the correct curvature, leaving the bottom edge of the wing lower than it should be. New running boards have then been made up to suit.

The chassis number should be on the left hand chassis rail to the rear of the rear engine mounting and just before where the bulked touches the chassis. It may be obscured by the bracket holding the fuel pipe and/or flitch plate.

Location: Gard, France 30960

You're right it does stop in the right place (rearwards) but it's about an inch or so too low. The fact that the curvature on the trailing edge of the front wing doesn't match that of the blue car is the give-away.If we assume that the doors are correct then the wing should be about just a bit lower than the bottom edge of the door.

Location: Gard, France 30960

Knowing what the asking price is, and now having seen the underside of the car. Theres not a lot wrong with it. Its a bargain.

If I had that car in the States I'd not worry about the wings and running boards and just drive it, 99.9999% of people in the world would have no idea if they're right or wrong.

Location: Oxfordshire

As soon as I saw the photos I suspected the wing goose-neck was wrong, but said nothing until hopefully I saw a full-side-on shot. So I agree with Reckless Rat (knowing his background I wouldn't be game to do anything else! - only joking RR). As an ex-repairer of these sorts of things I would have thought it would have been simpler to alter the wings rather than go to all the extra work as done. However, it looks like George will live with it, and as suggested above - who in the USA will tell him it's not kosher? Good Luck with your Seven. Cheers, Bill in Oz

Location: Euroa, Australia

Hello,

I'm fascinated to see the pictures of this car. I live in the suburbs of Montreal, Canada, and the pics were taken at a shopping mall about ten minutes from my house. I've been in the store in the background many times. Yet I never knew about the car!

George, you said you live in the USA. I'm not sure how far away from Montreal you are, or if you have looked at the car yourself. But if you want, please get in touch with me and I'd be willing to check it out for you.

I own a L.H.D. Canadian export 1937 Austin Ruby that I bought last April, but although I know my own car fairly well, I'd be the first to admit I don't have the knowledge of Austin Sevens that some of the other members here have. But at least I could make sure it runs well, etc.

Let me know if I can help you, or if you'd like a straight swap for a '38 Ruby!

Best wishes,

Ian McGee

Location: Montreal, Canada

Hello I have just been looking at your website re Austin 7 1934 model. I have looked at a 1934 two door saloon with sunroof etc which is running and driving etc. The condition is reasonable although there are areas of corrosion on the bodywork noteably above the windscreen and it would seem that the transmission cover is missing.On the mechanical side there are areas of water leakage around the engine but perhaps this is a feature?. Without the benefit of your seeing the car which has the relevant paperwork etc can you suggest an approx value bearing in mind it will need some work?
Many Thanks
Stewart Walsh

Location: County Kildare S Ireland

Stewart,
Difficult to say without at least some photos.
Cheers,
Dave.

Location: Sheffield

Stewart,If you contact:- Cairde an Seacht bhig (Friends of the little Seven)
Ian Clayton, Trawlebane, Bantry, Co. Cork, Eire. Tel: 027 52759 , he will give you a good idea of its value. He may even know something of the car if the owner has been on his contact list.

Location: Piddle Valley

If by transmission cover you mean for the gearbox the original RP box model rubber moulding is usually long gone and the gearbox exposed. It helps keep the cabin warm.

Location: Auckland, NZ