Trying to remedy a tight steering and I thought it best to separate the steering
Box at the drop arm from the steering shaft,to check if it's king pins or the steering box which is causing the problem,i have removed the split pin and the castellated nut thinking the rod end would seperate out of the drop arm, it will not Move, put a nut back on the thread and a tap with the hammer nothing, warmed the Drop arm another tap nothing it will not move any suggestions please would be
Most welcome

Location: Essex

I used one of these for years with (fiddly) success:



If you can get a suitably narrow one of these however, as I did eventually, it works in seconds:

The traditional method for releasing tapers in light housings was to apply a sharp blow between opposite sides of the housing.

Care is necessary that force does not reach the arm or box.
Support one side of the housing with a large firm mass; end of a chunk of heavy angle iron, head of a sledge hammer etc and, pushing this hard against the metal, apply a short sharp opposite blow with a not large hammer. If no success after two or three blows have to resort to something more refined.

The drag link can be dismantled but without some device to pull the ends together the bolt thread tends to get damaged.

I am curious to learn the cause of stiffness. Is it the very late type of box? It is unusual to be stiff near straight ahead unless just rearranged, and certainly not after protracted use.

Location: Auckland, NZ

I think you would be better to separate the steering at the front drag link connection by just taking out the 1/4" bolt,then you can check the feel of the steering box,and possible end float in the drop arm shaft.
Then with the wheels off the ground the king pins and track rod ends.

SO, one of these R?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLARKE-Ball-Joint-Separator-Splitter-PRO98-1700498-/152071471974?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Location: Cambridge

That is the kind of thing Hugh - most important is an internal jaw gap of 10mm any wider and it won't work, most are wider than this annoyingly.

I found one of the correct size in the end and would not be without it.

I have found in the past a good way to remove such things as A/seven drop arms or track rod end on other cars in fact anything on a taper by giving it a good sharp hit on the side of the drop arm in line with the centre of the tapered hole (not the threads or centre) This creates shock vibrations which release it from the tapered shaft. Sometimes a bit of leverage is requires at the same time as the hammer blow with something like a tyre lever or piece of bar.

John Mason

Location: Nottinghamshire

Many thanks for the help and advice i will make a start and report my findings
about head office tells me it will have to be after our holiday,again many thanks
Dan

Location: Essex

Location: Suffolk

Re tight steering just a little more info on the car it's registered as an
Austin Felix I think it started life as a Ruby and there is a reference in the
paperwork to year of manufacture 1934.at sometime in late 50s it was converted
to a 2 seat sports it seems the engine has been modified valves camb carb etc
A cross flow Speedex rad with (now) electric pump modified front axle and so on.
the bodywork is steel tube and an Ali skin and a Pram Hood. It's undergoing a
FULL re build with new Ali skin and so on and so on I hope to finish it before the oil runs out Dan

Location: Essex

Have now replaced the gear box after freeing of the clutch but. I am concerned at
how little pressure is required on the clutch lever to release the clutch what sort of pressure should it need ? Any help please

If you have a light clutch which functions correctly when engaged be thankful! In my limited experience the Austin 7 clutch can be an bit of a b**ger to depress and has very little take-up travel.

Location: Ripon

Thanks Duncan that sounds like good news Dan