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Re: fitting new whel stud

Lowespeed
As a rough guide to the amount left sticking out before peening the rivet over; I would suggest 11/2 times the diameter for a snap (round) head and the diameter for countersunk head.


As I understand it the preformed rivet head which is flat and countersunk goes on the inside face of the inner hub so that it is flush with the inner face and would not keep the inner faces of inner and outer hubs apart. The rest then goes through the hole into the stud flange and sticks out beyond the flange. The flange is not countersunk so there will have to be a domed head formed on the rivet, though all the others, on both hubs, are more or less flush. I need to be careful how proud the domed head is so that it clears the hydraulic cylinders of the brakes but am pretty sure there will be sufficient clearance.....Actually I have just thought - I can drill a small chamfer in the stud flange and that + the rivet hopefully swelling in the holes through hub and flange and a domed end will hold things snugly.............ok, I know the wheel studs will be held tight by the wheel nuts anyway. Understand the rivets are 1/8th inch dia.
I am probably being far too fussy!
Just been out and measured and well well the rivets I have are just exactly the right length for doming.....just plucking up enough courage now to go out and start bashing........just have to figure out how to hold the hub/rivet head steady on the anvil (a punch held upright in the vice)

Dennis

Location: NW Devon

Re: fitting new whel stud

Thanks for the offer Ruairidh. I would like to end up doing it myself so I will find it easier should there be another occasion. Much thinking and hints from others usually eventually provides an answer to most jobs.
Dennis

Location: NW Devon

Re: fitting new whel stud

I have just done six of these. I put the stud through the hole in the hub and then put the rivets through the countersunk holes in the face of the hub, followed by a large thick washer on the stud and over the heads of the rivets. I pulled everything tight with an old wheel nut. I then turned the assembly over and with the washer against the anvil (a heavy lump of metal) peened the end of the rivet into the countersunk hole in the back of the stud. I removed the nut and washer and made sure that there were no protrusions on the hub face that would prevent the two parts of the hub mating as they should.
Had I not been away I could have posted a picture of the set up.
Best of luck, Hugh

Location: In the caravan enjoying the sun

Re: fitting new whel stud

Hugh sammons
I have just done six of these. I put the stud through the hole in the hub and then put the rivets through the countersunk holes in the face of the hub, followed by a large thick washer on the stud and over the heads of the rivets. I pulled everything tight with an old wheel nut. I then turned the assembly over and with the washer against the anvil (a heavy lump of metal) peened the end of the rivet into the countersunk hole in the back of the stud. I removed the nut and washer and made sure that there were no protrusions on the hub face that would prevent the two parts of the hub mating as they should.
Had I not been away I could have posted a picture of the set up.
Best of luck, Hugh


Magic....Thanks Hugh, that seems like a foolproof way...........the answer always comes in the end......many brains make right work.

Location: NW Devon

Re: fitting new whel stud

I bought a set from a cherished supplier to replace two I broke (that I had made when I was 17) on the same hub.

Whilst mine did break, they did at least have the correct thread, and my rivet holes ligned up.....

I was in a hurry so made do with what came in the post. If I did not have a die nut they wouldn't have been a lot of use.

Give the ones you get a dose of looking at before you fit them. I had rivetted the ones I got up before working out the wheel nut wouldn't screw onto them.

Re: fitting new whel stud

Dennis Nicholas
Hugh sammons
I have just done six of these. I put the stud through the hole in the hub and then put the rivets through the countersunk holes in the face of the hub, followed by a large thick washer on the stud and over the heads of the rivets. I pulled everything tight with an old wheel nut. I then turned the assembly over and with the washer against the anvil (a heavy lump of metal) peened the end of the rivet into the countersunk hole in the back of the stud. I removed the nut and washer and made sure that there were no protrusions on the hub face that would prevent the two parts of the hub mating as they should.
Had I not been away I could have posted a picture of the set up.
Best of luck, Hugh


Magic....Thanks Hugh, that seems like a foolproof way...........the answer always comes in the end......many brains make right work.


Job done...another skill to add to the collection.
Though the only 'set' I had was really a bit too small a dome.....must get one the right size for the future.

Does anyone know what size to ask for and where to get one?

Dennis

Location: NW Devon

Re: fitting new whel stud

Nice one Dennis (and Hugh!).

The last one I fitted came with the correct rivets!

Re: fitting new whel stud

Many cars are candidates for new studs. It is very common for Seven studs to be stretched so look like Whitworth instead of BSF. And the shaft is often ominously recessed in the head due over tightening.

There is as much skill involved in dismantling the hubs without damage as in rivetting. The rivets have to do very little; with brass nuts little risk of seizure. I have seen some with countersunk screws burred over, adapted nails etc.etc.. I seem to recall very early cars had only one rivet.

Based also on experience with other makes, professional ”mechanics” and tyre changers are a serious threat to all cars with 3/8 studs.

Worn nuts and wheels may allow the nut to bottom

Location: Auckland, NZ

Re: fitting new wheel stud

I wouldn't believe that when using the original Austin 7 wheelbrace (which I always use) with good wheel nuts that you could ever over tension the wheel studs.

The only time I had a problem was the head coming off a stud- possibly a faulty replacement stud ?

The rivets are more for ease of assembly and don't take any load but need to be really tight - using the large washer to hold in place while riveting would I think need a final thump with a dolly on the countersunk head.

Tony.

Location: Malvern, Melbourne, Australia.