Hi All,
the biggest Enemy to any lubricated surface is Contamination of the Lubricant. This is when the favour comes in,
Fitting a full flow Oil filter buy this I mean one that takes all the oil from the pump and filters it before it goes into the Engine.
This not an expensive exercise and there have Been some very good Postings on how it is done just check back.

Secondly If you have not had the Sump off some time or never at you next oil change take the time to remove and clean the Sump this will only cost you time and a new gasket but It will get rid of the sludge also while your under the Car Check other things that might need your attention (ie) grease nipples you did not know you Had.

Just use the Oil that you are Happy with and give it a chance to do its Job

Happy Oil Changes.

Location: TINOPAI NZ

Colin, are you talking about standard Sevens, or high-performance cars here?

If it's the former, then yes to to cleanliness, but many of us have cars in daily use, with astronomical mileages on original engines, that have never needed the complication of a filter.

Location: Herefordshire, with an "E" not a "T".

Hi
I have been surprised, but after cleaning the sump out thoroughly in the Spring, the 20/50 engine oil in my Ruby has stayed (reasonably) clean looking all Summer - in the past it would have been black within a week. Is the engine finally clean?
Regards
Colin

Location: TINOPAI NZ

I had a car with a full flow conversion. The oil pressure didnt register when started for 25 seconds. Or 30seconds cranking on the starter.

Because of the splash feed the external pipes would empty themselves. Then have to refill before the oil pressure built up.

I improved it by fitting a non return. But Id sooner an engine get dirty oil than none at all. I wasnt very happy with it. Car now sold.

I fully agree with you Colin, the last engine rebuild incorporated a full flow filter. I'm just wondering how I can retro fit filters to the cars which have rebuilt engines without a total strip down. I prefer to use a low detergent lubricating oil to keep the engine internals clean of carbon build up and do oil changes at 700 to 1000 miles but with a filter this can be extended.
I'm always looking to see how I can reduce the wear & tear on our motors and in the last few years have
1) fitted air filters on the air intake, being updraught carburettors the intakes are low and the filters require cleaning about every 1000 miles but it keeps abrasive c**p out of our motors.
2)fitted zinc sacrificial anodes in the cooling water space to reduce corrosion of one engine with encouraging results.
The only time I won't use our cars is when the roads have been salted.

Hello Dave,
Details please of how you secured the zinc, what shape they were and where you placed them.
The book 'Rust & Rot' marked interesting reading and shows the efficacy of using zinc.

Geoff - September spent in Workshop using lathe.

Location: South Norfolk - Next to Suffolk

It all started when I was given an RN saloon which had stood outside for 50 years, the bonnet and it's stay were a pile of rust on the cylinder head in which lay the Rist horn. The cylinder head core plugs had rusted away together with their seating so I tapped the holes out 3/8" BSP and fitted 3/8" BSP hexagon headed plugs which were drilled and tapped 5/16" BSF blind holes into which was screwed the 1/2" dia zinc anodes about 1/2" long but not long enough to bottom. Also 1/2" dia zinc bars drilled 5/16" slid over the water outlet connection stud, again length to suit so it doesn't prevent the outlet connection from seating. I keep looking at the blocks to see where I can fit anodes.
This was done about 4 years ago and a recent inspection shows no rust where the anodes are fitted, not like your Ruby engine Geoff.

Thanks Dave.

Geoff - Nothing memorable to say

Location: South Norfolk - Next to Suffolk