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Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

Following the various bits of advice on whether or not to wrap up an RK on a trailer, my next thought is how to set about tying it down!
The back end is fairly simple I think....use the back axle as far out as I can get, but what about the front? there are things like shock absorber mountings & various steering / braking stuff that will get in the way I fear.
The modern way seems to be to wrap the wheels up in the tie down strap and ratchet it tight....is this the best way on a Seven? I don't have the separate wheel loops/strops on my ratchet straps, so would have to work out a way..... I don't want to be working it out on a dockside in the rain & getting dark...
David

Location: Stratford upon Avon

Re: Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

David,
We've used 4 ratchet straps and tyre loop things on both our Box and our special with success. We found that we had to tie a knot in the rear straps to shorten the distance from hook to ratchet to prevent the strap chafing on the running board of the Box.
We got them off EBay.
Alan

Location: East Sussex

Re: Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

Apart from strapping down the front and rear axles (don't attach the straps to the chassis because the sprung parts of the car can(and will) move during transit) make sure also that you have prevented fore and aft movement (particularly forward movement)to cater for braking/acceleration of the towing vehicle.

In an emergency situation even the low weight of an A7 can suddenly turn nasty due to momentum issues. (Momentum = 1/2mv²)

The rule is, if it's not secure it WILL move.

Re: Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

Hello David.
I have only ever used 'Machine Mart's' ratchet straps with their 'soft' wheel straps.
These prevent both fore and aft and sideways movement.
Regards
Stuart

Location: Staffordshire - the creative county

Re: Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

You dont need the wheel strops using ratcjet straps.

Put the strap behind the top of the wheel. Bring both ends to the front of the wheel and twist around each other.

Personally id strap the axles. Around each side of the diff. And around the radius arm mounts on the front.

Re: Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

Thanks for the suggestions...I will go for holding down the axles and I can make sure there is no fore & aft movement easily enough with other straps. Picking up 7 or 8 Nov and will be a friend of the A14....lovely!
regards
David

Location: Stratford upon Avon

Re: Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

When I bought my scoop scuttle chummy with beaded edge type wheels which are VERY narrow I was advised not to use wheelstraps as the wheels would not be strong enough in an emergency. So I use axles.

Re: Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

I have a pair of 6" deep wedges, one is bolted to the trailer bed to give a good stop at the correct point of balance and the other is strapped behind the same wheel once the car is on the trailer. This stops the fore/aft movement to a great extent and then the car is held down using four ratchet straps on the axles.
It is surprising how much damage a loose tonneau can do...

Location: Ripon

Re: Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

hedd jones
Personally id strap the axles. Around each side of the diff. And around the radius arm mounts on the front.


This is my preferred method - diagonally to restrict sideways movement.

Re: Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

Having transported many vehicles from Sevens to Rolls- Royce and Ferraris I have always found tyre straps to be the best method. When tightened the tyre being compressed, grips the strap and prevents slipping. If securing using the axles there is bound to be a little give as the tyres react to the trailer bouncing, this may allow movement and chaffing on the axle/s wearing any paint. Having said all that either method is ok , but never anchor to the sprung parts of the car.
A most important thing about trailering is getting the balance correct,too much tail weight will promote weave and ultimate disaster. (I know I've got the Tee shirt). Take a look at this FB clip it demonstrates it perfectly.
https://www.facebook.com/Trustmeiamamechanicalengineer/videos/822426531232285/

Location: Piddle Valley

Re: Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

Hi All, When loading a single axel trailer should have 10% load on the tow ball and a duel axel 5% hope that helps

Location: TINOPAI NZ

Re: Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

Thanks again.
The next one is an AG tourer with the remains of the hood & (I think) not much glass in the screen! So that will have as much removed as possible & will have to take it's chance with the weather!
I'm using a single axle trailer with a max nose weight of 100kg, so no problem there....but how DO you measure the nose weight? I have seen caravanners with fancy electronic devices, but is there a "rule of thumb?" I was planning to put the Seven about 2/3 the way along the trailer & see how it feels! (trailer 400kg, Seven 425kg, ...should work!)

Location: Stratford upon Avon

Re: Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

Just looked on that fount of all stuff...Fleabay....there are lots available and a very simple gauge costs about £8 delivered!(or over £100 if you want!)

Location: Stratford upon Avon

Re: Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

The deck of my trailer has multiple holes for strap hooks and I have a set of straps specially made that lets me fasten my Sevens down as in the photo. I've towed my cars many, many thousands of miles both in the UK and in France with this set up and never had any sort of a problem at all. Important to load the car with the weight slightly forward as others have said.



Steve

Location: North Yorkshire

Re: Trailing (not trialling!) a seven

A set of bathroom scales and a block of wood under the hitch will give you a close idea of the nose weight. Another guide is that if you can't pick the hitch up with one hand then it's too heavy.