I am plucking up the courage to attempt to repair my ignition switch PLC2 I think - Ruby Mk2 ARR - where the key rotates freely but does not provide ignition.
I have spent time reading all relevant posts posted here & Sandy Croall's excellent articles on the Cornwall website.
What is not covered, at least I cannot find it, is how the conductors are secured to the terminals - soldered, screwed? Can anyone advise?

Armed with this info will help with finalising my decision on personal repair or to seek some expertise.o

Where might I find such expertise should I bottle out?

All help would be hugely appreciated. Thank you.

Location: Felixstowe, Suffolk

Dismantle on the floor in the middle of a large room with plain lino then you will find all the pieces!

Location: Auckland, NZ

Inside the base of the switch is a small propeller shaped item that has a contact on each blade.
If your key is turning in a circle, the oblong drive hole in the centre of this has become rounded with wear and tear, plus undue force, and the drive from the key no longer turns the 'propeller' into an on and off position.
I have several switches with the same problem and no source of remade items to repair them. If you are skilled you may be able to make one but it has defeated me in the past.

Hello PW
Any chance of a photo of the propeller with the rounded hole. Is it possible to build up the hole and re-machine it? If parts were available is replacing it a DIY job?
Thanks.
Adrian.

Location: New Forest

you can make a new propellor piece out of paxolin, or something, but is it definitely that plc switch?

Is it a key one or a spade type key, as they revamped design entirely between the earlier spade and later key.

Anyone with a 3D printer?

David

As mentioned by JonE, there are 2 types of key switches fitted to the 7 - One operated with a spade key and the other has a cut key. The cut key switch, fitted to later Rubies, has a mazak operating item with 2 'ears' and 9 times out of 10 one or both of these break off during dis-assembly. Again a very difficult problem to put right.

My original post above relates to the spade key type, fitted to very early Rubies and pre-Rubies from around 1932. I will try to send you a photo of a damaged 'propeller', as I call it, via you email.

With patience it is possible to rebuild either switch if you can repair or renew the damaged items but great care must be taken with dis-assembly and re-assembly to not loose any of the parts and to put them back together in their correct position and order.

Hi Paul
You may find the article in Feb.2015 FOCUS The cornwall A7 club magazine useful, showing the parts of the Spade version of the PLC switch and how to make a replacement from epoxy glass printed circuit board material.

I'm sending you an email version of the article together with a dimensioned drawing of the 'propellor' insulating rotor for the PLC2 type which I believe you have on your mk2 Ruby. I have made the spade version, and it is working exceptionally well and I don't see any problems making the other versions.

Don't be put off by scare stories - take things slowly and patiently - and don't be afraid to ask for more information!!

Good luck
Bob

Location: St Tudy North Cornwall

Firstly thank you all for your responses. Much appreciated.

In answer to one question regarding the key type. It is not a spade key. The key I have is a cut key made by Veeder Root. No damage to the key cut is evident. Does this confirm the switch identity?

When I purchased the 7 the key was initially temperamental in that provided you had oceans of time the ignition would eventually power up / shut down. That situation however didn't last long & now the key just rotates in the slot. Fortunately the last time I gained key ignition I decided to leave it 'on' so i could power the engine. Currently shut down / start up is achieved by removing / replacing the battery ground terminal.

All other switch functions are fine. I have not yet dismantled the conductors from the switch as I need to complete continuity tests to confirm what goes where. The new loom (not installed by me) is attached to the vehicles original wiring via bullet connectors. Once I have labelled the original conductors I can then concentrate on the switch.

All help greatfully received.