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Re: Plc switch repair

Anyone with a 3D printer?

David

Re: Plc switch repair

Adrian Payne
Hello PW
Any chance of a photo of the propeller with the rounded hole. Is it possible to build up the hole and re-machine it? If parts were available is replacing it a DIY job?
Thanks.
Adrian.


As mentioned by JonE, there are 2 types of key switches fitted to the 7 - One operated with a spade key and the other has a cut key. The cut key switch, fitted to later Rubies, has a mazak operating item with 2 'ears' and 9 times out of 10 one or both of these break off during dis-assembly. Again a very difficult problem to put right.

My original post above relates to the spade key type, fitted to very early Rubies and pre-Rubies from around 1932. I will try to send you a photo of a damaged 'propeller', as I call it, via you email.

With patience it is possible to rebuild either switch if you can repair or renew the damaged items but great care must be taken with dis-assembly and re-assembly to not loose any of the parts and to put them back together in their correct position and order.

Re: Plc switch repair

Hi Paul
You may find the article in Feb.2015 FOCUS The cornwall A7 club magazine useful, showing the parts of the Spade version of the PLC switch and how to make a replacement from epoxy glass printed circuit board material.

I'm sending you an email version of the article together with a dimensioned drawing of the 'propellor' insulating rotor for the PLC2 type which I believe you have on your mk2 Ruby. I have made the spade version, and it is working exceptionally well and I don't see any problems making the other versions.

Don't be put off by scare stories - take things slowly and patiently - and don't be afraid to ask for more information!!

Good luck
Bob

Location: St Tudy North Cornwall

Re: Plc switch repair

Firstly thank you all for your responses. Much appreciated.

In answer to one question regarding the key type. It is not a spade key. The key I have is a cut key made by Veeder Root. No damage to the key cut is evident. Does this confirm the switch identity?

When I purchased the 7 the key was initially temperamental in that provided you had oceans of time the ignition would eventually power up / shut down. That situation however didn't last long & now the key just rotates in the slot. Fortunately the last time I gained key ignition I decided to leave it 'on' so i could power the engine. Currently shut down / start up is achieved by removing / replacing the battery ground terminal.

All other switch functions are fine. I have not yet dismantled the conductors from the switch as I need to complete continuity tests to confirm what goes where. The new loom (not installed by me) is attached to the vehicles original wiring via bullet connectors. Once I have labelled the original conductors I can then concentrate on the switch.

All help greatfully received.