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Re: steering adjustment

Sorry no time to give full step by step and pictures but here few tips.
My one, though fully adjusted used to sometimes lock solid when going round a corner/roundabout......very embarrassing at speed!. I had the worm and sector teeth built up and machined by a proper engineering firm and much adjustment but still to no avail!! Was introduced to MolySlip, put it in box and magic transformation to one finger light steering.

The late box has a thrust ball race at the bottom of the column instead of just brass/bronze thrust washer....is ball race ok or badly worn? Last time I wanted one (20 to 30 years ago!) the ball-race was obsolete and unobtainable but I guess they may now be available? Seem to remember end float of column controlled by shims somewhere?
The mesh of the rack with the worm is also controlled by the thrust button which you will see looks like a rounded rivet head on the nearside of the box. Open box and punch out this button and you will see it has shims under its head. Wear on end of button and/or thrust face of end of drop arm that bears on button will allow rack teeth to get too close to worm
- Remove shims to push drop arm further away to decrease mesh and give rack-teeth/worm clearance.....in conjunction with up and down movement of side plate (with 3 bolts) by levering or tapping with a hammer and drift -more accurate and controllable than levering.
I still want a bearing if anyone knows of a supplier. I can't remember if there is also a ball thrust above the worm?

Location: NW Devon

Re: steering adjustment

Nick, Derek, et al,
Dennis has given a good summary above. The worm end float is set by shims behind the two bolt flange seen in the picture at the top of the thread. I've never changed the thrust races, they always seem OK if not messed about with. If you're stuck you could probably change the balls in them. Set the end clearance to the clearance side of no up and down movement when dry. The wheel spindle end play is set by the button in the housing. Remember to take into account any gasket you intend fitting (buy two and use one for the adjustment stage only) and that you probably tighten it a bit more 'for real' than when you're adjusting. Again slightly on the positive side of zero clearance when dry. You can stone the end of the spindle and button if that helps the selection of shims you've got available or try a different thickness paper gasket. Put the two sub assemblies together applying your chosen lubricant and engage the mesh.

If the worm and wheel have lived together for a while they should mesh up easily. I've never tried lapping as Austin suggested. I can imagine however that an old well used pair could be more worn at the straight ahead position than slightly to each side such that the tightest spots may be either side. Just set up to these spots. As suggested above the picture in Bill Williams book (an Austin picture I think) shows an adjusting screw and lock nut where the grease nipple is in the picture above - an easier way to adjust.

I've more experience of the earlier boxes and I've invariably managed to get them to about 1/16" free play at the end of the steering arm without a noticable tight spot at the steering wheel. See how close you can get it!!??

Dave