Thanks...perhaps that is why there were two washers under the needle valve! The valve appears groove free, I will looks at the earlier threads, It did seem to me that the float chamber might be too full, so I will look at the levers -the float is sound.
D

Location: Stratford upon Avon

Location: Shropshire

Hello David
You are quite correct, there should be a packing washer (BE23) between the two manifolds.
Have you also checked there is no hole in the vacuum line if you have one.
Adrian.

Location: New Forest

No vacuum line...I will look & see if there is a take off open or closed off!! I have an electric, non-original I think - wiper.
I will make up a packing piece. Thanks for that confirmation
D

Location: Stratford upon Avon

One thing no-one else has mentioned is a possible leaky float. Modern petrol and old solder are not good friends, and it is a problem I have experienced. Take out the float and shake it near your ear. If there is anything rattling or sloshing inside you need to find one which doesn't do that.
By the way, Willie McKenzie is a good source of replacement FZ bits, such as needles, levers and things.

Robert Leigh

Location: just north of Cambridge

I have suffered leaky floats (not pleasant!) in the past & am pretty sure this is ok...I will try the boiling water test.
D

Location: Stratford upon Avon

Whilst petrol dripping on the exhaust is not a good thing, I assume at the moment the exhaust is cold so put a small tin to collect the drips. When you are up to your neck in crocodiles it's difficult to remember the object of the exercise was to drain the swamp. The petrol level on a 22 FZ is adjusted by moving the collar on the needle valve, some of these collars are locked with solder so it may need heating up first. Move the collar up to lower the level and down to raise it. The movement is not a 1:1 ratio, a small movement of the collar causes a bigger change in level. Does the petrol start leaking immediately you turn the petrol on or is there a pause, if a pause it suggests that the needle valve is leaking and the level maybe OK. I have had quite a bit of success reseating the needle valve in the seat using T cut, do not use grinding paste. I put the top of the needle valve in a pillar drill with a drop of T cut on it's lower end then hold the seat lightly against the needle valve with the drill running at it's lowest speed. Keep lowering the seat away and do not led the two run together dry. A couple of minutes is usually enough, then wash parts thoroughly before reassembly.
Back to draining the swamp, with all this petrol about why is the motor not firing?

Hello David
I would not be too worried about the petrol leak at this stage of trying to get the engine started apart from the obvious fire risk. Cranking the engine over with the choke closed and not firing will liberate a little petrol from the carb.
After cranking for a while, are the plugs wet? If not put a little petrol down each bore and quickly try again. Should at least cough.
When turning the engine over slowly can you feel 4 compressions to 2 full winds on the handle. That should tell you if you have leaking valves.
Remove the dizzy cap and note the direction of the rotor and check again the order of firing 1342.
If you believe everything is correct try towing the car and bump starting.
Adrian.

Location: New Forest

You mentioned that compressions felt a bit weak. Rather than petrol, try putting some oil down the bores. Then give some cranking with the starter but with ignition OFF. Then try again.

Location: Farnham

Compressions have improved. Oil has been squired in the past week.
From all the advice coming through I think the needle valve may be the first culprit...especially as it had two fibre washers fitted when I dismantled it. These may have the effect of lifting the valve seat, as opposed to the "correct" solution of moving the collet!
I will keep you in the picture!
David

Location: Stratford upon Avon

IT RUNS!
Ether down the plug holes, into the inlet, full retard & choke and it ran for 5 seconds!
It did not want to repeat the experience, but a 12v battery spun it over and away it went.
Started ok then on 6v on the starter & the clutch seems to work. I have an oil pressure gauge fitted & that looks good, tomorrow I'll get it really warmed up. Engine sounds pretty quiet, albeit a bit of a clatter from the back.
Cleaning up the needle valve on the carb sorted the over fuelling
Thanks to all the gurus!
Now to deal with the DVLA & get it registered.........
David void(0);

Location: Stratford upon Avon

Ah success, now don't just keep running it on the drive on idle, take it for a run round the block, when no one's about, to get the valves and rings working.

I have a cunning plan!

Location: Stratford upon Avon