Very nice job, but when I was in business & making & repairing running boards - in quantity! - I found the ends too time-consuming (thus costly) to do similarly, so thereafter fabricated the curved bits. With new boards all it required was to weld on a shaped side-piece to the extra length (which I had curved) to the flat section either end. This meant only a quick weld along the top outer edges of the curve, plus a quick weld across the board if making a complete new end to an existing board. Then with a proper bending tool ( a vice grip would be okay) shaped the 1/2" flange underneath. If the latter is found to be difficult, the flange can also be welded on. And writing of under-side flanges reminds me - if you have a '23 model, the running-boards do not have a flat flange underneath, but instead the flat flanges are rolled around 18" wire. Hope this alternative helps others to choose the most convenient for them. Cheers, Bill

Location: Euroa, Australia

Nice clear pic of the late 26 AD, never seen that back to front view of the pic in Wyatt which 'is' the right way around. Where did you get it Stephen?
Rivet counters note advance and retard levers shown at twelve and six o'clock!
BTW nice job Stephen. Ian M

Location: Bristol

Reading my post again,I'm not suggesting all the levers were fitted that way but original Austin photos seem to show that the position wasn't consistent. Ian

Location: Bristol

Thank you for the kind offer Ruairdh. I have the radius all worked out now and the parts made. The parts will be welded on after the floor is made so that they can be made to fit.

Stephen

Hi Ian,
the pic I used was the one you are familiar with only photo shopped to show the "mirror" image. I did this so the comparison between my existing sill and the factory one could be more easily compared. Thank you for the compliment.

Stephen

Thanks Stephen, presumably you also were able to enhance the clarity, very clever shows what can be one if you know how. Ian M

Location: Bristol

Stephen and others - a rider to the above. I recall now that I bent the small 1/2" flange to the side-piece Before welding to the board. Much easier than doing it on the completed piece. But a question to Stephen - (not a criticism) - have you checked your completed board alongside an original real one? It may be the photos, but to me it seems your end piece is too semi-circular. In real life, the curve requires some "straightening out" on the vertical section so that it will fit easily up under the descending wing. Ruairidh's photo of a completed board seems right to me. Hope I'm wrong with my view of your good work, only trying to help. Good Luck with it. Cheers, Bill

Location: Euroa, Australia

Hi Bill, the radius of the piece was made to match the lower rear edge of the body. I made the circular bit oversize so it could be trimmed to give what ever degree of curvature is required to mate with the rear wing when offered up to it. This will be determined once the body floor is finished and the sill can be attached to the underside of the body flange. Should work I think.

Thanks for your input and concern about the shape.
Stephen

Nice work. I like the idea of doing That kind of work. I am in the process or learning to tig weld

Location: Ireland

It's suddenly dawned on me that the sill should have a wired lower edge from where it attached to the front wing back and up to the rear wing also ?

Can anyone confirm this for me please ?

Thanks.
Stephen

Stephen - I would be interested if some-one comes forward to the contrary, but of all the mudguards I repaired it was only the 1923 model that had the wire, all others had a half-inch flange, see my item above. Cheers, Bill
P.S. It's also interesting that when I typed 1 slash 2 the computer immediately altered it to read 12 - tried to alter it several times, no go. Thus the full spelling. BS

Location: Euroa, Australia.

Thanks for your insight Bill. On my particular car both the front and rear wings have wired edges, which is why I suddenly wondered if the sills should be too.
Stephen