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Re: Un-seizing a sleeping engine

Mark,
I forgot to mention that we tried a feeler gauge all round the gap between flywheel periphery and bell housing and located the zone where the feeler gauge would not pass.
Dave.

Location: Sheffield

Re: Un-seizing a sleeping engine

Dave Wortley
Mark,
I would remove the flywheel. Surely the shiny area on the flywheel suggests something is trapped between flywheel and bell housing. A friend and I just had the same problem. We found a 5/16" spring washer trapped between flywheel and bell housing. Do be carefull not to use brute force and crack the bell housing.
Dave.


I'd remove the gearbox and look.
I have an aversion to disturbing flywheels unless necessary (along with rear hubs).
A loose nut or gravel could easily be in there.

Re: Un-seizing a sleeping engine

I hate to introduce the thought, but the only time I had a similar scenario, the crankshaft was broken (not by me - the only one I've ever broken was another that belonged to Ian Dunford!). Sincerely hope I'm wrong. Cheers, Bill

Location: Euroa, Australia

Re: Un-seizing a sleeping engine

Bill Sheehan
I hate to introduce the thought, but the only time I had a similar scenario, the crankshaft was broken (not by me - the only one I've ever broken was another that belonged to Ian Dunford!). Sincerely hope I'm wrong. Cheers, Bill


I sincerely hope you are wrong as well. Unfortunately the sun is shining today so it's painting not finding out the answer just yet.

Location: Rokeby, Victoria, Australia

Re: Un-seizing a sleeping engine

Mark,

You said that the Starter Motor hold down bolts have been removed- but in the photograph the nearside bolt hole appears to still have something in it - and as mentioned the flywheel 'mark' is directly in line with this.

If something had just fallen in I would have thought the mark on the flywheel wouldn't be quite so straight.

No other suggestions.

Cheers, Tony.

Location: Melbourne. Victoria, Australia.

Re: Un-seizing a sleeping engine

Dave Wortley
Mark,
I forgot to mention that we tried a feeler gauge all round the gap between flywheel periphery and bell housing and located the zone where the feeler gauge would not pass.
Dave.


Good idea Dave, I have never removed an A7 flywheel so will do everything else first, but the way it's jammed suggests it will not come out easily.

Location: Rokeby, Victoria, Australia

Re: Un-seizing a sleeping engine

Tony Press
Mark,

You said that the Starter Motor hold down bolts have been removed- but in the photograph the nearside bolt hole appears to still have something in it - and as mentioned the flywheel 'mark' is directly in line with this.

If something had just fallen in I would have thought the mark on the flywheel wouldn't be quite so straight.

No other suggestions.

Cheers, Tony.


Tony you have saved the day, what you noticed was something I thought was meant to be there. I have circled them in a fetching shade of red, these are a sort of homemade helicoil that were screwed in just a bit too far. So thanks everyone engine now turns nicely but I will have to find a new way of locating the starter or just grind some off the "homemadecoils"and replace them.

Cheers, Mark

Location: Rokeby, Victoria, Australia

Re: Un-seizing a sleeping engine

Mark,

They look like a hex head so unscrew and fit proper helicoils - with suitable short bolts for the starter !

Cheers, Tony.

Location: Melbourne. Victoria, Australia.

Re: Un-seizing a sleeping engine

Or if the starter fits well onto these - maybe the holes in the starter housing have been opened out to suit - just take the 'Helibolts' out and file the bottom at the angle of the bellhousing to give a clearance - and reuse them? I suspect the threaded holes in the crankcase will be too big to get the right size proper Helicoil in?

Dave

Re: Un-seizing a sleeping engine

Dave Armstrong
Or if the starter fits well onto these - maybe the holes in the starter housing have been opened out to suit - just take the 'Helibolts' out and file the bottom at the angle of the bellhousing to give a clearance - and reuse them? I suspect the threaded holes in the crankcase will be too big to get the right size proper Helicoil in?

Dave


You were right Dave, I measured up on a spare engine and cut the "Helibolt" down by 3mm and used a strong loctite and it seems good.

Cheers, Mark

Location: Rokeby, Victoria, Australia

Re: Un-seizing a sleeping engine

I'm glad you were able to work it out Mark - I had a feeling it was something in that area causing the jam