Thanks Charles.

Paul

Location: Penicuik

The quick steering is one of the features of a Seven which makes them fun to drive on tight winding roads and obstacle courses. If it had not been for the ultra rapid response my saloon would not have been recovered from several extreme departures from the intended course and/or roll angle and would have been destroyed.

The basic flaw with the Seven steering is the inbuilt geometric error of the linkages. With no play in the box if the car is rocked the wheel turns through a wide angle, especially notable considering the ratio. For this reason the wheel is best lightly gripped. Over some waves and winds the car will hold course better with hands off! It is for this reason that many recommend distinct play in the box to allow the road wheels to deflect and re centre and so reduce wander over bumps and winds on the straights, even though a good box can be adjusted for almost no lost motion.
Despite wild antics I never detected any tendency to lock or to load impossibly in the Seven but with salons roll limits antics. I have discovered the unnerving lock trait in other makes with a lot of plain bearings.

The Ford system where the track rod is steered directly is not ideal with transverse spring and suspended shackles; the Ford Y is not noted for steering precision! Late US Fords had a Panhard rod to ensure axle end and track rod moved in similar arcs.
(The geometry with many makes of older cars was compromised; often countered by almost eliminating any spring travel!)

Location: Auckland, NZ

Hi Charles,
A couple of further questions if you can help.
Did you convert to 'rose' joints at both ends of the drag link?
If so what size of bolt (dia) did you take the taper out to on the steering box drop arm? At the moment I have tghe original style joint at the drop arm and 'rose' at the steering arm.
The drop arm looks fairly minimal strength wise as it is.
Thanks,

Paul

Location: Penicuik

Hello Paul,

Yes I have "rose" joints at both ends of the drag link and the bolt size is 3/8 unf

Hope this is helpful.

Charles

Location: Norfolk

Thanks Charles,
So using 3/8th you are relying on the torque up of the bolt to keep everything tight as the fit in the eye is not great due to the expanding taper?

Paul

Location: Penicuik

I have had no problems with this fortunately. Reckon if the assembly is careful you have a set up that is better than original.

Have you lowered the radius arms mounting to increase castor angle? (Packing piece between spring and chassis) This mod works in well with lowered steering ratio and taken together will bring a smile to the face on a bumpy road.

Charles

Location: Norfolk

Hi Charles,
Thanks for that.
I have a Big 7 front axle on roller bushes instead of shackles with bespoke spring (longer), panhard rod and double radius arms each side going back to the chassis sides.
The castor is set at 3 degrees but this is easily adjusted via the radius rod lengths which are on 'rose' joints. Final castor will be set by experiment. This is a pure track car in case your wondering.

Regards,
Paul

Location: Penicuik

It’s really good to come across an informative post regarding information outside the box!

As the above posters have said longer steering arms really helps so I was told by a well-known Austin 7 Single Seater Builder.

I have used two bicycle cranks carefully grafted onto the steering box shaft and the end of the steering arm. These are just over 6" long and should make for less steering input.

I am also using rose joints on each end and keeping the arms as inline as possible.

Also I found that the steering box gear has three positions so it can be moved around the shaft keeping away from worn surfaces.


The picture below shows a temp link arm but cranks in place.

https://www.facebook.com/LotusSportster7/photos/pcb.1304491196335053/1304490069668499/?type=3&theater

Location: West Sussex

This photo shows a slightly different set up. Big 7 axle split to give IFS... The track rod is split and joined with ball joints to the steering arm... Steering box mounted such that the arm operates horizontally facing forward... (Similar set up on the Worden, but the arm faces rearward. I'd give it a go on my Speedex, but i'm starting to worry about the points score, lest they do ever require retrospective testing of specials...?

Anyone got a 50's ford recirculating ballbearing steering box gathering dust under the bench?

Location: Colchester

[/url]

Having battled with Photobucket am using Flikr now so can show my solution. Along with a modified steering box (photo on Photobuckrt thread) I have altered the steering arm ratio as others have done.
The axle is a Big 7 one.

Paul N-M