I'm afraid that it's me again! I've managed to get the engine running by using full choke, although I have never needed choke before.
It is running too fast but when I push the choke in, it accelerates and then dies unless I pull the choke out again.
It has run enough for me to set the distributor in a better position but now I need to tackle the slow running.
Any ideas why it accelerates then dies when pushing the choke in, would be most welcome. In the meantime I am checking over everything (without taking anything apart at this stage).
Brian

Location: Near M1 Jcn 28

Brian, the Viton "O" ring shavings gives the clue that you have recently been tinkering with the petrol tap. This being so, one of my first checks would be that there was a sustained, adequate flow of fuel to the float bowl??

Ian Mc.

Location: Shropshire

Sounds like an air leak. Choke out giving plenty fuel and air mixture so runs slowly and a bit erratic; choke in and momentarily fuel/air mixture becomes just right so accelerates; then air/fuel becomes too weak so stalls.
Worn butterfly spindle (varnish/dirt originally partially sealing worn bits now cleaned off so more air leaking in); Good seal at base of carb.?....check for curved base which may need filing flat.

Location: Devon

My car does this when it is first started from cold. The reason in my case is that the choke on the FZ carburetor is extremely crude. The choke closes off the air intake almost completely so the engine cannot rev. Releasing the choke allows it to rev and run for a bit but the enriched mixture is soon used up so the revs drop and it stalls unless the choke is applied again.
I have to run it for a while closing and opening the choke a few times until the engine has a bit of heat. It then keeps running if the hand throttle is opened slightly to give a raised tickover. I always start from cold with the handle throttle opened slightly.
Once the engine is warm it ticks over very nicely.
If the problem persists even when the engine is warm then there is some fuel starvation, possible main jet again.

Followed what you said Jim and had the same result! Engine revs are still too high but I'm working on it and at least it will now start on the handle.
I may make it to Autokarna yet!
Brian

Location: Near M1 Motorway Jtn 28

Have you checked your carb/manifold flanges for bowing and air leaks?

Location: Piddle Valley

Check the carburettor mounting flange for flatness Brian, it sounds like you have a bad air leak and I've yet to see a flat mounting flange on any 22FZB I've acquired. For a picture of the 22FZB see Barry Riseley post of June 30 2017.

Location: Near M1 Motorway Jtn 28

Sorry Brian it is 2007, I just Googled Zenith 22FZB carburettor and found the thread almost immediately.

I'm very grateful for the suggestions and decided to ensure that all the joints are flat. I've had the exhaust manifold on the miller for a light skim both sides, the problem here was pitting corrosion.
The carburettor faces were check but only needed a light linish.
The inlet manifold I had thought was good but examination revealed that, whilst a check along it indicated no problems, a check across the carburettor joint faces showed considerable errors which a couple of hours of hand sanding with a piece of sanding belt glued to my surface table has improved it no end it could do with another one with more metal on the faces.
I'm now getting ready to reassemble and picked up a NOS tube of Holts jointing compound at Wollaton to assemble things with. I had a smell of it and it has the same smell as 'Osotite', of which I have a small can in the workshop. The stuff I have been using was like Blue Hylomar but does not stay flexible, despite what It says on the tube.
I 'll let you know how I get on.
Brian

Location: Near M1 Motorway Jtn 28

SUCCESS!!!! Many thanks to all on and off this forum for help and advice. The car started on the first swing of the handle today and just needs some very minor adjustments to make it run really well.
The worst out of flatness on the inlet manifold was underneath where it was very difficult to place some thick oil to see if that revealed the leaking air. Just need a longer run to satisfy myself that all is well and then a short run on Saturday or Sunday to the Belper Steam Fair near Denby in Derbyshire, might even be the odd Austin.
Brian

Location: Near M1 Motorway Jtn 28

Well done Brian, glad you got there in the end

Location: NZ

Maybe I'm unlucky but every Seven engine part that is supposed to have a flat mating face that I've come across is anything but flat. Crankcase top faces are the worst usually exhibiting fretting damage from loose blocks and or starter housings, while every exhaust manifold has had a distinct hollow in the centre. So it is has been standard practice to check all mating faces before use.