Michael - I have successfully repaired this problem, in situ, on many occasions.

Email me your phone number (again) and I will talk you through what I do.

Actually, in this instance , no.

A right angled drill can be very useful, but it has to be used with great care. It does allow the access you need.

Location: Just north of Cambridge

My engine died on the way to Autokarna last month, first developing a hiccup, picking up when changing down, but eventually dying on me with in a cloud of blue/grey exhaust fumes. After the car was recovered home I feared the worst - compression was low but increased on a wet test and the plugs were all wet and black. I suspected broken or worn rings and decided to finish building my spare engine, now in the process of fitting. When I removed the exhaust system (patched and rusty and ready for replacement)I discovered it was full of water/antifreeze, and the exhaust manifold dripped blackened fluid.

When I removed the exhaust manifold and carb two of the manifold studs came out with the nut - these had been resealed about a year ago when I swapped the manifold. With the new engine already in place I had gone past the point of no return.

I now believe water had entered the exhaust manifold and gradually drowned out the combustion chambers resulting in a steamy/smoky demise on the side of the road and I put this down to those two leaking manifold studs.

My advice, assuming the diagnosis is correct, is to make sure you have all the manifold studs in place and fitted securely with Loctite!

Location: Doncaster

I always make sure the stud threads are a good fit in the threads in the block (Helicoil or insert if necessary) and then put a couple of turns of PTFE tape around the thread of all manifold studs. They need to be tight in the block.

You need to make sure the PTFE tape is wound round the threads in the right direction such that it doesn't wind off as you screw the studs in.

With a four branch manifold, the centre manifold stud is redundant so the hole in the block for that needs to be sealed up. I use a 1/4" BSF socket head grub screw (so I can get it out if I ever need to) sealed with PTFE tape and a dab of Loctite Copper Silicone.

Steve

Location: North Yorkshire