I've just bought and fitted one of these units to my post 1933 A7 (as far as I'm aware they only make 2 models for A7s) and I can't make any sense of the wiring diagram they supply. Has anyone successfully fitted one of these starter motors ?

Location: Ferring, West Sussex

I have fitted these, but not to an A7 as yet.

Basically there are two options electrically on these starter motors.

One is the modern standard "pre-engaged" arrangement where the main 12V connection (a big stud) is permanently live and the starter is operated by applying 12V to the starter's solenoid connection (this is the 1/4" spade terminal on all the ones I've seen). Your starter button or switch on this option carries very little current.

The other wiring option mimics the operation of a Bendix style inertia starter where the main connection to the stud on the starter only becomes live and operates the motor when an external solenoid or a heavy duty switch/starter button (like the one that a 29-32 A7 had) is operated -this solenoid/switch carries the full starter current. This arrangement uses exactly the same starter motor as in the option above, but now the main connection on the starter is linked to the spade terminal of the starter's solenoid with a short length of wire so that the starting motor and engagement solenoid become live at the same time.

Hope that makes sense, Stuart.

Location: N W Kent

I know of a couple of A7 racers that use them,no problems as far as I know.

Thanks for the replies but all I'm basically after is a wiring diagram appropriate to a post 1933 with the starter relay on top of the starter motor. I'm also fascinated and slightly disturbed by the fact that 'jump-leading' to the supposed live terminal and earthing the body via the other lead ... doesn't lead to any action. A bit worrying in the event of a dad battery and need for assistance, especially in a car with no starting handle. I'm going to bring these points up with the chaps at Powerlie who, so far, haven't been very helpful short of saying 'that we've sold lots of these units to A7 owners without any complaints so far'! Doesn't mean that they've fixed them though.

If there's no connection between the main connection stud and the starter solenoid spade connection, it won't work in the manner of an inertia starter, as indicated in my post above.

If you want to replicate the '33 onward starter arrangement at the dashboard, you will need to find a pull switch to connect the A7 dashboard pull to. This style of switch was used on Austin A35's, early Morris Minors etc. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STARTER-SWITCH-ST19-TYPE-FOR-AUSTIN-A30-A35-1952-1960-76423A-/252938063318?epid=1723079056&hash=item3ae4488dd6:g:jjQAAOSwIgNXravX to provide power to the starter.
So, assuming you have a good earth in place already, you would have a connection from the battery to one side of the switch, a connection from the other side of the switch to the main stud on the starter motor, and the solenoid link wire in place that I referred to in my previous post.

Location: N W Kent

Hi James,
have you wired up a live feed via the starter button/switch to the 'trigger' terminal on the new unit, so that when you operate the starter switch the built in starter motor solenoid connects the main feed to the starter internally?
Just a main feed and and earth alone won't do it.

Apologies if you've done this and it still doesn't work.

Steve V.

Location: Polegate, East Sussex, United Kingdom

Steve, Must admit that I haven't done this. There Is a diagram in the supplied instructions to indicate connecting the trigger wire to the main/large (in my case -ve) pole of the starter motor. I assume that if I connect this and then use a jump lead to the battery, the starter motor will work. ? Correct. As implied complete wiring diagram with the instructions would've been useful. Apologies for the delay in my replies but today have got to accommodate 2 low flying grandsons (of sorts!) ages 1 & 3!

Hi again all, connected the trigger to the starter moto's main terminal and 'jumped it' from the -ve battery terminal (+ve earth car) and nothing obvious happened except the trigger wire got very hot and when I switched off my master switch I heard a click which I assume was the starter solenoid closing. So obviously not getting anywhere. Any further help would be appreciated or I'm left with no choice but to return the unit to the manufacturers.

Location: Ferring, West Sussex

Hi James,
When you connected the jump lead from the battery -ve to the starter motor did you put it on the main terminal or the trigger terminal? Unless you have a very thick link wire between the main and the trigger you need to connect the jumper to the main terminal.

The fact that the link wire got hot would indicate either a fault with the solenoid or that the starter motor current is passing through it. Are you using a 12V battery?

Obviously, I used a thick wire (Jumper lead) on to the main terminal and I phoned and checked with the seller that the unit was suitable for 6 Volt + Earth operation before I purchased it. I might add that 1/2 an hour after fitting it having phoned Powerlite to organise its return I was quite horrified to find the whole unit was quite hot suggestive of an armature burn out. I hasten to add that at no stage was there any activity from the motor itself. I've put the old starter motor back on and am glad to report it works perfectly although it only turns the engine over slowly a problem that I've found in common with my other 1932-35 Austin 7s (even with an 80 amp hr battery).

Location: Ferring, Worthing, West Sussex

hi James,
from what I've seen on their website, Powerlines Austin 7 starter motors are 12Volt only so unless they do a 6 volt one as well -which I couldn't see then I think you've found the problem.

Steve V.

Location: Polegate, East Sussex, United Kingdom

I understand they only produce them in 12v as well.

If that's the case QED and fortunately I've got my messages sent and received on Ebay relating to my asking 'is this suitable for 6 volt operation' which was answered positively by the seller Andy's Autoparts Oldham. I think if they are only suitable for 12 volt operation it should say so somewhere obvious in the advert, on the box or unit itself and they should not be advertised as suitable for post 1933 Austin 7s without some reference to this. Powerlite also produce a more expensive one for earlier Austin 7s but again no mention of voltage. Very misleading which I've found out to my cost ... but it could've been much worse if I hadn't disconnected the battery.

Location: Ferring, West Sussex

Fortunately any advertising relating to these units is now marked 'for 12 Volt use only' so you are unlikely to get caught out as I did. Thanks to the help and guidance of those on the Forum I managed to get far more weight behind my complaint than I would have without such support.

By returning the starter to Eurolec who distribute these units, rather than the seller, the firm are showing a strong interest in producing a starter suitable for 6 Volt use and hopefully this will happen within months rather than years.

Location: Ferring, Worthing, West Sussex

I have just picked up on this thread and have a question James; Why did you need one of these new starters, what is wrong with the standard 6V starter motor? Just asking as I have never found a problem so I am very curious as to why.

Location: NZ

Ian, it may be a personal experience but I've always found my 1935 Speedy to be a bit ponderous in starting along with another couple of other post 1931, pre-1937 A7s with rear facing starter motors. Obviously, lacking a fixed starting handle, being pressure fed with a covered nose cone and having a high compression head may not help. Not an issue in Summer but can be in Winter but to date haven't had to resort to 12 volts. Again have kept on top of the wiring, cleaned contacts and even used an 80AH battery to little improvement and it always starts (provided battery has a good charge). Incidentally, I've found that the higher output battery has transformed starting the earlier Bacon-Slicer motors. Had a bit of spare cash and thought I'd give Powerlite a go !

Location: Ferring, Worthing, West Sussex

Thanks James, I am a great believer in sticking with 6V and original equipment where ever possible, and I must say I have never had any issues with any of my cars, hence my curiosity, and of course I agree it's personal preference what modifications if any are carried out. I have a pressure fed speedy type engine in the Nippy and that spins into life easily in any conditions, the engine is reasonably fresh and I completely rewired the car with multiple earth returns which may assist reducing volt drop.

Location: NZ