Am attempting to replace split rubber boot over U/J on '32 RN. According to the 'Companion', the cross pin on the end of the shaft should be driven out sufficient to push a new boot on to the shaft then be driven back to position. Trouble is it wont shift - even with a bit of heat. Have I missed something or should I apply more brute force?

No help, but it says in the Manual "...drive the pin flush to the prop shaft to get a new cover on", so it seems it is meant to move, but under force!

Algae

Just one thing to check. Clean the 2 flat surfaces of the end of the shaft where the pin goes through. It may have been drilled and pinned. I saw this once . It was done to locate it centraly. Not actually necessary ,as it happens.. Also new pins are available from seven work shop now.

Is there (was there) a special tool, perhaps, to move the pin through the hole?

I tried to press one out the other day and even with some moderate heat and a hefty bench vice I was unable to move it without possibly doing damage. I desisted until I can get to a large hydraulic press I am sometimes allowed to use!

Glad to hear that the pins at least are available again. I had thought of manufacturing some myself using half inch silver steel. Thoughts on this anyone? Are the new ones hardened? I presume they are.

Mike

Success. Tried again but with a bit more heat then when I started to chicken out I gave it even more heat! Came out with the aid of some hefty clouts with a club hammer and drift!
What I did notice is that it seems to be unidirectional( only goes in/out one way)

Congratulations David!

I will be attempting this procedure in the near future so have been following your exploits. The pin should be parallel (mine is too butchered to tell for sure) so should drift in/out either way. How hot did you need to make the knuckle before the pin moved?

Cheers,
DG

Well, as hot as you dare make it. I used a propane torch for at least 5 mins evenly around the knuckle. Then drove the pin with a brass drift until one end was flush with the knuckle to get the new boot on.

One thing I did notice after my first fruitless effort was that it appeared to have been fitted from one direction. Not that it was tapered but that on close inspection it seemed more of a snug fit on one side than the other

Hope this helps. Good luck!

David

Thanks David. I have to actually replace my pin (& blocks) but initial attempts to press out failed - not sure how hard to push. I will try the heat & thump method next.

Cheers,
DG

Mike,

The pin should be made from a mild steel which is then case hardened ( properly not just dipped in one of the case hardening compounds ). If you harden Silver Steel it will be too brittle.

Regurgitating an old topic..........The blessed things are still giving me trouble. Not only is the shaft vibrating at about 30 mph, how does one keep sufficient grease in the carden block to keep it lubricated (Herbert said grease weekly!, without overdoing it so that centrifugal force splits the rubber boot and sends the whole ruddy lot everywhere!

I cant seem to make those mini CV gaiters last five minutes without them breaking up.

Use a leather gaiter never had any problem with one.

Thanks David. Can you advise who supplies these?

i would not normally say this as I do not know any one else one who makes them, I will tell you I do. Ring me on 01903504948 if I can help..

David I have always made my own from a pattern of an original gaiter. You will also need the wooden blocks that are clamped around the propshaft David

Turn the boot inside out, coat boot and pin with grease and with the aid of a blunt lever (old screwdriver) the boot can be slid over the pin without moving the pin. In the process the boot turns right way out. I'm not keen on moving the pin unnecessarily, they can be a sloppy fit in the shaft then it is degrease everything and Loctite it in. I did one of ours yesterday.

Whilst we're on the subject of propshafts, when I was underneath my 33 Box the other day I noticed that there was quite a bit of up/down play in the prop shaft sliding joint. Is there any means of repairing such a joint - I've never taken it to bits so an guidance would be appreciated. I do get a fair bit of vibration when running.