I was at The Autumn Amble Recently, that ended In Bognor and one of the entrants failed to finish as his fan spindle bearings failed due to neglect. It prompted me to list the items that I have found to fall into that catagory; The fan spindle should be greased every 600 miles or so. There is a felt at the rear end of the bearings that keeps in the grease. Some times they are missing ( causing excessive end float) or they are so compressed one may not even know they are there.
Torque tube mounting. Underneath the little cover between the seats is found the back axle torque tube mounting. There is usually a plug (1/8 gas thread). to,grease the assy. install grease nipple and pump in grease until you see it coming out by the castillated ring. This the ONLY lubrication the top pinion bearings get.It also goes down inside to lubricate the chassis ball joint. When Do you last do IT?
The clutch release bearing is also very rarely oiled. once a year is enough. I use 3in1 ;6 drops.
How about a drop of oil on the drag link balls and pins? On the ruby the front one has a greaser built in .
The steering box; 6 shots of grease, when on full lock on each side.I know it eventually fills the column, but that take years!

Thanks for the tip Mac. On the reverse side of the coin, dealing with the anti-lubrication properties of the Seven, even after carefully using a fibre washer under the square camshaft bolt, it still leaks! I give up!

Don't give up... Try again.Put A thin metal washer immediately under the head of the bolt.This stops it "digging in" to the fibre washer that you put on next. Then wrap the exposed thread generousely with plumbers P.T.F.E. white tape. With your finger smear it with silicon and fit. Leave it over night . Dont run it. Then try. If the thread is good. It is is'nt it? then it really should work.. Mac

Ah, I didnt use the metal washer as well as the fibre but did use the silicone sealer.

But I cant get the bolt out with the block on the crankcase...............or can I?

Yes ! It's "B*****r". I have to do the job for some one in a couple a weeks. To get them out of trouble as they had an engine "done" a couple of years ago. Remove rad.; manifold ; dynamo housing etc.Mask up the exposed timing gear.Gaffer tape is Good. Use an angle grinder: Remove the guard..Goggle up! Fit a thin 1mm cutting wheel. These are available from a GOOD tool shop. They are a revellation! I have not used a hack saw for years. The cut is so fine. Any way cut "lumps" off the head of the bolt,until you can turn it out. Replace it with one trimmed hexagonlly. Call me on 01903504948 if you want to talk.. Mac

Mac, I have only used one of those ‘skinny’ discs on one occasion, it dug in straight away and broke into pieces which scared the s*** out of me. I like the idea of a hacksaw less life, is there a particular make of ‘skinny’ disc that you can rely on?

The discs I use are BOSCH professional. Material no 05300. There are lots of other nos.on it but that should help.THey have a woven material bonded into them and when I have abused them , they shred harmlessly.THese are so good they will cut a half shaft like butter and then a 2BA set screw. I suspect you got yours from Peckam market. Made up of Yaks hair and Pummice !!

I'm feeling neglected! My beau has gone on rowing wekend at Henley. The Rotter. TiggsX

Since I learnt that the 1958 AEC bus clutch release bearing was similar to the 3 speed Seven and was grease lubricated I replaced the oil tube with a grease nipple and give it a shot of HMP grease once a year.
Regards Dave

Dave, you learnt that? Which school did you go to...

Cedric

Heavy engineering, where there are ball and roller bearings the size of a Seven engine and are grease lubricated. In fact the only oil lubricated rolling contact bearings that spring readily to mind are turbochargers, the size of a Seven, which are pressure fed and our Sevens.
Ah yes and my RN has Ruby drag link end caps for greasing.
Finally the rear spring eye and bush arrangement means that all the grease you pump in doesn't lubricate the pin but comes out where the end of the leaf is turned round. Solution-ream the eye out to 3/4" and bush back to size for standard bushes, not forgetting to drill the grease hole in the bush.
Originality is OK but I'm too old to scrabble under the dashboard once a week to oil the clutch thrust bearing as Austins recomended.
Dave

Good Tip Dave,

One of my Sevens has a grease nipple instead of the oiler tube. Not only is it better for lubrication but it is so easy to locate the grease gun on the nipple and put in a measured amount of lubricant. I shall do the other at the next 'engine out'.

I'm not alone!
Dave

Dave,
Oil it ONCE A WEEK ! Blimey.

Now I'm prepared to offer a big prize for ANYONE who does that.

Phil

My Ruby must be one of the slipperiest cars around. I'm not gifted with a spanner - every time I get one out I either find that the manual doesn't tell you enough or I shear off something vital! But I'm a demon with a grease gun. It took a while, though. First of all I tried using a standard modern grease gun - grease went everywhere except in the nipple. Then I bought an old Enots type gun - some grease went in the nipples, provided I could stop the gun slipping off. Then a friend gave me a tip:

PUT A PIECE OF THIN (CLEAN) RAG BETWEEN THE END OF THE GUN AND THE NIPPLE

This was probably common knowledge to all except me, but it really works. Since then I have felt "safe" with the grease gun and apply is liberally. I do do the fan spindle, and both prop shaft nipples (although the front one dropped off - easy to get spares though + locktite). I managed to get a whole gallon of EP140 delivered through the post for the back axle, and have a special can reserved for it.

It took me about a week to actually find the fabled oiler for the clutch.....it's all very small (and dark) down there; after much fumbling and straining I slipped off the seat and accidentally depressed the clutch pedal....Bingo! up pops the oiler like a little jack in the box. Doesn't tell you THAT in the manual, does it?!

Halfshaft

Halfshaft, first welcome to this Forum and happy motoring in your '36 seven.

Which grease gun did you use the rag with, the modern or the Enot's?

Phil

Hullo there Philip,

The gun I used the rag with was the old-fashioned enots-type. The particular friend who gave this piece of advice is a Ford man (with a couple of Bently and Alvis adornments, thanks to a tolerant wife).

He always appends any advice he gives me with "I'm sure you know this already", heavily implying "I don't want you to think I think you don't know much about mechanical things". In fact, it is blatently obvious that he is a total whizz and I am an utter dumbkopf about such things.

One of the problems with the old car world is the number of knowledgeable quiet types who defer from giving advice in case they offend the person being advised. The only greater problem is the number of people who pretend to know lots and present their dubious knowledge to eveyone else as gospel truth. They are usually the people who get offended when they are advised!

Am I being too cynical?

PS.....I think I'm probably the mug Mac's doing a camshaft seal for "in a couple of weeks"....

Talking of the use of material, I found a stocking under the back seat of my nephews car. He assures me he uses it whilst attending to his cars welfare.Can I be assured by you gentlemen that this is so! Maude Farnsworth.