I've recently acquired a 1931 Box which has the Bowdenex(?) front brake conversion. Has anybody any info about this e.g. adjustments etc. In particular there is an extra fitting on the cross shaft adjacent to the handbrake which takes the form of a split collar clamped by a spring loaded bolt with a wing nut which might be some kind of damper?. Any info appreciated.
Cheers, Dave

Hi Dave, My advice is Remove them! They are incredibly difficult to adjust and balance(due in some part to poor lubrication) and in my experience give you a " hard" pedal and negate the real effectiveness of the rear brakes. Front cable brakes ,well adjusted,are as good and give you a "Live" pedal.What is that you ask.? It is essential to have play at the brake pedal so that the flexing of the chassis and the twist of the cross shaft and the interplay of the cables has room to "breath". Tight pedal does not mean good brakes! The idea behind the bowden cable brake was that as you applied the brakes the axle twisted forward and with original cables thus slackening off the application. THe bowden was not effected by this and in theory kept on the pressure. Incidentially on my 1931 box , I have over the years had them and hydraulics ,and now I am back to good old cable.

Hello Mac,
Thanks for that info. The split collar with springed clamp that I referred to appears to be part of the original handbrake adjusting mechanism a picture of which I have now spotted in the Source book. (Couldn't see anything in the Companion). I think I will try to get the bits to revert to original (cable, back plate levers, the thing attached to the cross shaft that the cable goes round?). Might do a comparison test. Thanks again for a really usefull forum.
Cheers, Dave

My 1936 Pearl has Bowdenex cables on the front. These work OK if well greased and routed without sharp bends to minimise friction, but this will always be worse than a zero-friction open cable. I find the front/rear balance is very critical to set up, with a few turns on the threads one can go from all front brakes to all rear brakes. My theory is that the pre-girling brakes relied on cable stretch plus flex in the chassis and suspension in order to equalise the cable tension front to rear. I'm not sure if this was by design or happy accident! The less stretchy bowden cables upset this state of affairs. The later semi-girling brakes have a pivoted front/rear equaliser, maybe this overcomes the problem.

Interested by Mac's view of Bowdenex operated brakes. I can only speak for two cars I have had with and one without this system. As all seem to agree, the frenzied greaser is the enemy of the Bowden cable. I recall my Dad (a straightforward if primitive operator, at times) hanging up the Bowdenex from the car I drive now and playing a blowtorch gently over the cables. Big pool of grease on the floor, free movement restored! My Bowdenexed car has a lighter pedal than my "standard" braked car (good reason for this, but perhaps an explanation another time!)and I find no trouble with balance. Indeed, I find lining material to have a much more significant effect on balance than application method!This assuming all else is in good nick, of course. From time to time I wonder if the axle ends will twist off, which maybe wouldn't happen with Herbert's built-in ABS, but so far so good. Quite agree that well set up standard system capable of excellent results. By all means remove the Bowdenex, but I don't feel you have to...my first move would be to ensure all else is in first rate state. Regards, Stuart