I recently inherited a fine Austin Seven Ruby Saloon 1937. It runs fine, but I am unsure on what petrol I should use; here in sweden we have unleaded green "95" or "98". I guess I have to add lead replacement of some kind, as well as oil - but in what amount and of which type?

First, 95, 98 is just wasting money.

Then, I don't think there's any requirement to add oil, I have never known it, unless someone puts in Castrol 'R' for the smell..... There's plenty of oil getting up into the cylinder bores from the splashing about underneath anyway.

If you use a standard lead replacement fluid like 'Castrol Valvemaster' (not the octain plus stuff - that's just wasting money again), then the neck of the bottle is calibrated for the amount required per 5 litres of petrol.

So no problems, Austin's are simple, keep it simple, like life, it's the humans that complicate things, and men especially, just to look clever, something they rarely achieve....

Naomi

It really is not necessary to add anything to your unleaded petrol, I have used it in my a7 since it was introduced with no ill efect what so ever. Happy motoring

First I agree with Mac, but some people feel they must do SOMETHING, as mentioned a long time ago on this Forum, a 4* petrol Volvo was OK on unleaded as long as the revs.were not used at silly levels, and as you can do a steady 80mph at 3,000 revs, that is OK.

So, further to my earlier reply, The Essex Clubs mag Chassis has arrived today and there is an item as follows

****************

Ametech Engine Restore Oil

A press release flooded its way across the Chassis Towers desk the other day and woke up Gerald the press officer amid a wonderful snooze. He rubbed his eyes, looked at the release and cried "This is just what I need for my smoky, oil burning, gas guzzling engine! So he read a bit further and excitedly tapped on his typewriter the following....

'Ametech Engine Restorer and lubricant is an additive which is introduced to engine oil and claims to :-
1 - Restore Compression
2 - Restore horsepower
3 - Reduce oil consumption
4 - Restore engine life.

Endorsed by Quentin Willson, no less he says "if your engine is low on compression and a bit smoky you've really got to try Ametech Engine Restorer. You add it at an oil change and it reverses engine wear. I know these magic cure-alls have been around for ages, but this one really does work. A mate's Bentley S2 had a flickering oil light at low revs and clouds of blue smoke from the rear. Rather than swallow the two grand for an engine overhaul, he dumped two litres of Ametech (Engine Restore Oil) into the sump. His S2 is now running as "sweet as a nut" with no smoke and no blinking oil light.

It costs for a 250ml can £15.00 including VAT and p&p and the more you buy the cheaper it gets. Quantity to buy is 250ml for each litre capacity. Suitable for 2 stroke and 4 stroke engines it takes up to 500 miles before a noticeable difference is experienced and Restore carries on repairing the engine until the next oil change.

For more details and a heck of a lot more info - go either to EBay (search for 'Ametech Engine Restoreq or direct from Ametech Ltd. The Technology Centre, Station Road, Framlingham, Suffolk IP13 9EZ Tel: 01728 726533. Email ametechQbtopenworld.com

********************

Now I know you have to have loads o' money for a Bentley, but 2 litres of Restore Oil at 15 GBP(£) per 250ml = 120 GBP's. They live in another world.

Again, I cannot see a reason for oil additives.

Naomi, believe in Mac, he's a nice man, a very nice man......

Not exactly cheap is it? Its probably worth more than the smokey old bangers its designed for!

Back to the point.... Quentins mates Bentley had a flickering oil light as well as a lot of smoke.
The low oil pressure is likely caused by excessive clearance of shell bearings on the crank. Magic stuff must either take up this clearance by depositing some material on crank or bearing OR it must have an incredibly high viscosity. Surely both of these explanations would or could have a detrimental effect on modern engines with complex precision oilways and drillings. Would the "magic stuff" not gunge up parts and take up clearances it shouldn't??

Steve

Steve

I agree, it's fool hardy to stick in a fluid that thickens things up, the flickering oil light is a low pressure signal. A friend ignored a flickering low pressure reading on the gauge in her XK 140 and it led to a complete engine rebuild. She thought it was a faulty gauge, in fact it was a loose joint after the pump, so oil was leaking away before it got to the bearings.

Naomi

Hej Thomas, kul att det är några fler svenskar som har hittat hit.
Naturligt vis ska du köra på 95 oktan, nåt annat är att slänga pengarna i sjön.
Om du behöver blytillsatts till bensinen, beror på om du har fräst in nya ventilsäten eller inte, när du renoverade motorn, troligtvis inte, i så fall köper du en liten flaska på macken, blandning står på flaskan.
Jag har själv 2 st A7, en Nippy 1934 som är färdigrenoverad, samt en Fabric Saloon 1929 som det är en hel del jobb kvar på
Jag bor i Uppsala, var håller du till.

Sorry
i wright on Swedish to Thomas

Talking of additives. Is there any truth in the story that adding sawdust to your backaxle oil makes it quieter?!

Don't know. I would have thought it wood!

Apparently the sawdust was a dodgy done by Used Car salesmen many years ago, either that or banana skins !! (Barry would probably say that the latter constitutes a limited-slip diff ?) Cheers, Bill

Another thing used car salesmen used to do, was to put cut up Nylon stockings into the back axle to quieten it down. Not sure if it worked though, must have been great fun cutting the stockings off though!!!!Happy Days

Not forgetting the odd oak piston , or two.

Mike

here are a couple of interesting links:
50,000 professional and amateur hotrodders on:
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/engine-restore-does-work-71649.html

StreetFire.net, a car enthusiasts' web site started in 1999 by a handful of car nuts. Originally conceived as a "CNET.com for cars," StreetFire has evolved through the years to be the premier provider of car videos on the Internet. Today, StreetFire streams nearly 2 million videos a day to 4 million car enthusiasts a month.
http://forums.streetfire.net/showthread.php?t=7200&page=1&pp=10

Ford truckers:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/363952-ametech-engine-restore.html


real clients with real problems solved &
money saving tips on car repairs:
http://www.americantechnology.co.uk/index.asp?function=WEBPAGE&page=4
http://www.americantechnology.co.uk/index.asp?function=WEBPAGE&page=3

Talking of sawdust, my dear old 12/4 suddenly decided to weep a little water from the base of one of the valve chest covers, just as I was on point of sale. Upon investigation it was found to be a hairline crack in the block. Thing was some kind soul had added a generous helping of sawdust into the valve chamber presumably knowing of the problem to soak up the water dribble. This little scheme worked for two years whilst in my ownership. I sold the 12/4 on owing up to the problem and accepting a lower price for repairs to be allowed for.
Another lesson I learnt, thieving tricksters are still about, more so in our world of vintage.

i have had excellent results with both K-Seal (Kalimex = tiny copper shavings) and Ce-Lit (ground seeds - yes really) in sealing water coolant leaks. permanent results so far.