Well,B*****, That's three in 49 years! what are things coming to?This one lasted 10 years of "brisk" motoring. I was just driving to the local beach for a swim and was just accelerating away, reached a massive 20mph and bang! no external damage luckily. So I have decided to fit a phoenix crank with the original rods white metalled. Has the world any observations?

Mac

I always said that too much swimming was not good for a lad!

On a practical issue, I am sure that you will check the rods for truth after a wrench like that.

As you say so eloquently - B*****.

Hope it will not stop you going to Longleat tomorrow.

Mike

That's bad luck Mac, although I suppose it could have been a lot worse.Atleast you seem to have escaped with a rebuildable engine.

I am very much afraid that I have very little knowledge to impart in this area.

I purchased my current Chummy several years ago and understand that it has been fitted with a 1 1/2" Phoenix Crank, Renault 750 rods and shell bearings, together with pistons which were specially made by JP Engine Products in South Australia because the previous owner wanted to use a +0.010" Block.

I am more than satisfied with my engine which sounds and runs better than any other A7 I have ever owned.

My engine still only has "spit fed" lubrication and retains the starting handle in full operation.

I understand that some other "variations" mean that the starting handle facility is lost.

Even in the depths of your despair, angst and suffering, may I beseech a boon!

Would it be possible for you to briefly outline your "Phoenix" options, (which you will no doubt explore with the company), on the forum?

I have to consider an engine rebuild for another A7 shortly and will be contemplating a Phoenix Crank.

I have never really understood all the variations that "Phoenix" make possible, but, on the basis of your comments, they must make a 1 5/16" shaft as well as the 1 1/2" variety.

I know it would be possible for me to write to the company, but given your experience with A7's I would really value an insight into your evaluations.

They say that a fool learns by his own experiences, and a wise man by those of others. I could never get away with posing as a wise man, but I can be a fool without trying!

Regards

Barry R

Tanya did the same thing in our Chummy a few weeks ago (her third in 5 years!!!), broke at the third journal, still ran!

I have just purchased another Pheonix, and will run on Austin rods. Both the Ulster and Cabriolet have this arrangement i.e. Pheonix Shaft and Austin rods. The only thing I would check is that the new crankshaft fits into the crankcase, one or two have fouled the rear main housing and have needed to be filed down slightly (make sure you do this prior to balancing!).

I have heard that some modify the oil holes by opening them up slightly so the jets get a better chance of hitting the right spot.

I hope this isn't going to stop you coming up to the Scottish Rally. Looking forward to seeing you there.

Cheers

Ruairidh

There seem to be a large number of variations in terms of 1 1/2 inch, 1 5/16 cranks and various rods, Renault, Phoenix and Austin. Shell or white metal, external filter or simply uprated Austin pump. I'm confused and would also welcome some advice.
For instance, can I use 1 1/2 inch Austin white metalled rods on a 1 1/2 inch Phoenix crank without altering the rods?
If I have to use shell bearings with Phoenix rods what sort of filtration, if any, is needed?
If I have to use Renault rods, where do I get them from?
Any help would be gatefully received

Hello Ruairidh,
Did Tania break a "Phoenix" crank? I am not certain from your posting.

Regards

Barry R

Barry,

Tanya broke an 1 1/8" crank (she has also broken a 3 bearing crank and an 1 5/16 two bearing - within 10 days of each other! - love is blind, and very expensive.....).

I have had no problems with the Pheonix shafts, the Ulster has done around 60K on it's and the Cabriolet around 35K. I did have a problem with the white metal on the Ulster (this has very high compression)and had them re-done with Diesel-engine-type white metal which is harder and has performed well since.

There is an article in one of the Association Magazines I did written by John Newman of Pheonix about how the crankshafts are made (I will look up which one and post it here). You can buy them direct from Pheonix or "Support of A7 Traders" and get them from John Barlow like I chose to.

Good luck

Ruairidh

NOthing will stop me coming to the Scottish Rally! Hoping to source a crank this week, to collect At beaulieu.We are going in Jason,s chummy It hasn't broken at crank, YET.

For details of Phoenix cranks please see www.ingineur.co.uk/A7C/crankshafts.htm
For a standard or sports engine, the 1 5/16" version is the simplest because you can use standard Austin rods. One point to watch is that (I think) they tend to use a non-Austin (UNF?) thread on the back of the shaft, so check this before you order - safer to ask them to supply the nut with the crank.

David

David

I hadn't seen your page for a while - useful crank info. Thanks.
I can confirm that a 1 1/2" pressure fed crank with Phoenix rods does indeed fit into a standard magneto crankcase. It's bloody close, especially with the blower mounts but it fits.

Charles

Thanks David,
The "ingineur" site certainly goes a long way towards unravelling the "Phoenix" picture for me.
One aspect I still don't understand though, is the matter of connecting rods.
It is obvious that the 1 5/16" version allows the use of original Austin rods.
The site also advises the availability of what are presumably "Phoenix" made rods to suit the 1 1/2" version/s.
I have been under the possibly mistaken belief that Renault 750 (or something) rods and shells are also suitable, although where one would source those from I do not know.

Regards

Barry R.

Phoenix make rods to fit both the 1 1/2" and 1 5/16" cranks. Renault 4 rods are an option but are now very difficult to find - certainly in the UK although such as John Way does sometimes source them in France (where they are also getting quite rare). If they turn out to be common in Aus, please let us know!!

The simplest option, particularly for a road car, is a Phoenix 1 5/16" splash fed crank with a set of good A7 rods. Pretty much a straight swop for the original set up. Use Phoenix rods for a set up that will be almost bomb proof but accept that the rods cost as much as the crank.

Good to hear that you got some competition miles under your belt with the new motor last weekend Charles

STEVE

Thanks Steve - I was wondering how to reply but you have helped me out there! I would like to add bits of your info to my website if that's OK by you (nothing like a quick bit of plagiarism!).

Cheers, David

Thanks for all the "Phoenix" info. I think I now understand the options.

David, if you are going to add to the already quite comprehensive info on your web site, I wonder if it would be possible to "cite" the actual Renault model from which the rods can be cannibalised for use in the A7?

I really have no knowledge whatsoever of Renault parts, but think there is an appropriate Car Club down under. So, if I can identify what I should be looking for, I will be happy to make some enquiries about availability.

The 1 5/16" with Austin Rods looks very attractive though.

Regards

Barry R.

I think we know each other well enough and for long enough for plagiarism ( if, indeed, that is what it is) not to be a problem, David.

Glad you enjoyed the Light Car. Can't join in because I don't have one any more but those cheap '30 Seven Saloons on Ebay are VERY tempting - it's just finding somewhere to put it

STEVE

Found one! Collecting it at Beaulieu from John Barlow. He seems to have the only stock. I rang john Newman who manufactures them and he tells me he won't have any made till Sept Beaulieu. HOw much? Dont ask!

Mac

The cost may appear high but if you'd been unlucky and destroyed most of the engine as some have it would be twice as painful - Especially so if you have to acquire the parts on the "open market", so to speak.

Charles

What cost peace of mind?

I bust a standard two bearing crank through journal number two in my RTC special, it was replaced with a 1 5/16" Phoenix crank and a good set of Austin rods, the rods were re-metaled with Hoytz-Z racing grade, I took the trouble to match all the weights of pistons & rods before getting the whole lot balanced with the flywheel and clutch on the end, it has an uprated spit and hope lubrication system, and so far has proved more than adequate for some "spirited" road touring work.

Phil

Phil, what do you do to uprate the oil system?

A larger ally sump is fitted and an extension tube added to the pump intake, so as to draw cooler oil from the bottom.
I bored out the pump slightly more eccentric, and fitted an inline filter from a mini, the gallery was plugged just inboard of the gauge take off point, and a new feed hole was pu into the gallery at the front end.
The hole diameter in the font camshaft bush was reduced, thus forcing more oil into the two big end jets, thes jets were also re-aligned to get a better aim at the holes, whe running hot at around 40 to 50mph I am getting a steady oil pressure of about 9 psi at the gauge.
All felt seaks were disposed of and the castings re-machined to accept modern lips seals in an attempt to keep the oil inside !!
There are very parts on my engine that have not been "worked on"

Phil