Re: 1934 RP Saloon:
I'm getting no output from my dynamo, and would like advice on the proper order to test. I have the green Austin Seven companion book, and have already done the reverse polarity change with no result. I get no voltmeter reading at all.

Also, since I pulled the dynamo to put the brushes back in, upon reinstalling it, I've screwed up my timing. I can't see how to expose the flywheel to reset. Any help? This model has the front facing starter in the engine compartment.

Thanks!

Disturbed in Dallas

Hi David

See the article on the Cornwall club website, written by Malcolm Watts.

http://www.austin7.org/dynamo_service.htm

Ref the timing, there is a pressed steel cover you can remove to expose the flywheel and its timing marks on top of the cranckase behind the block.

Removing a plug can help timing as well to make sure you are on compression on number one cylinder. In fact you can get it on compression on number one and then find TDC with a screwdriver down the plug hole and guess the timing from there to get it running again without disturbing the pressed steel cover, from which point you can tweak it by feel to were it wants to be. If you turn on the ignition you will see a spark jump the points when you rotate the dizzy to right position as they open, just make sure the rotor arm is pointing something like the right way and you check the plug leads still correspond correctly!

Regards

Steve

P.S searching back through this forum can often turn up good info

Cheers and Happy New Year!
David

Silly question, but is the engine number similar to the Chassis number + about 1000.

If you have an engine that is above say 200,000 then it's possible/likely to be a low chassis engine (Ruby etc.) and the 'tin' casing over the flywheel will be difficult to remove as the casing is almost touching the bodywork above it. Hopefully you have a contemporary engine (High Chassis engine) and it will be a little easier.

Can we assume your rubber/carpet inside the car has been stuck down and thus why you could not find access to the timing marks?

Once you have done the timing, it might be useful to make a marker for the camshaft/fan pully and mark both TDC and 'max advance' on the pully.

I can send you a copy of an article I did for the Cornwall mag some time ago, unless Malcolm can up load the pictures on this Forum.....

Finally, A7CA Registrar, could you let me know the chassis number please, so I check if I have your car listed (which I probably have as the names familiar - but I've been out celebrating today/all day with a Yorkshire ale - 'Black Sheep' and my ability to move is limited. We know how to live and die down/over here in Cornwall.

Sandy

Sandy, thanks. Chassis number is 170548. Hope this helps. I used Steve's timing technique with great success. My wife came running into the garage thinking I'd got her a new Swiss watch as a late Christmas present. :-). Engine number is 171474.

Hello David,
There are two simple ways to test a dynamo.

If you have the dynamo off the car, then with the D and F (may be marked SH) terminals on the dynamo joined together with a suitable piece of wire, apply your battery, connected in the same "sense" as the car wiring (ie + to bridged dynamo terminals and - to dynamo case for a car with negative earth) Dynamo should "motor" and spin with great alacrity.

If the dynamo is on the car, disconnect wires from dynamo (noting which goes where if there is any doubt) and bridge the D and F terminals together. If you have a multimeter, you can connect that between the bridged dynamo terminals and earth. Cautiously rev up the engine and if the dynamo is OK, you will quickly see rising voltage, even as high as 20 volts or so. If you don't have a multimeter, a 12v bulb wired between bridged terminals and earth will demonstrate whether or not you have dynamo output.

I will send you some info via email which might help you find your "lost" timing.

Regards

Barry R.
Tasmania
Australia

Another one!

Chassis Number 170548 is NOT in the Register.

David, if you could enter the cars details via the Austin Seven Clubs Association web site at www.a7ca.org (I don't know if you have to add ".uk" after the 'org' as your in USA) then go to the 'Chassis Register' and once there, select 'Notifications Page' which is at http://www.a7ca.org/submissions.htm

Sandy.........

should that not be a 1933 car with that chassis number? Mine is, and the chassis is 176617.

Secondly, given that the low chassis engine is different, can anyone explain whether my particular combination of block/crankcase/chassis is OK...

Crankcase is M238100, block is earlier (screw in core plugs)car is a 33 RP saloon chassis 176617. Just wondered.... having said that, it seems to work well enough!

Hi Reckless,

Looking at Wyatt, one of a number of possibilities is that vans continued to use the high chassis until approx chassis no. 276XXX with engine nos. therefore roughly M 277XXX in July 1937. Your crankcase M 238100 would be approx December 1935 manufacture. Another possibility looking at the Source Book, the Opal high chassis model was I believe still in production in December 1935, so your crankcase may not be the slightly differently cast low frame version after all despite its number and date.

Jeff.