I fancy sorting out the connection between the throtle shaft and the steering column throtle levers on my car.
As my car is a bitsa and I'm not totally sure that the shaft is the correct one, or has all its components, though I think it has, I have the levers on the bottom of the column in place, and a bronze lever on the shaft with some slack. I assume all I need is a link of the correct length, and to align the lever on the column correctly.

Can anybody help with a picture of all the correct components on a car and working?. My car is a 1930 RL, though I suspect most of the steel body'd cars are similar.

Many thanks in advance.

Hedd, hope this helps

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w283/stuartu/Controlgear.jpg

Regards, Stuart

Hmm, yes, and no, my throttle shaft is neither of those!

My shaft is a bent bar like the top one (BF 36), but on the pedal end i have, working inwards, a pedal, then the brass lever, then the bearing, then the collar, without any of the other dotted components. Basically the set up on the export car. I assume the other dotted parts are the advance/retard gubbins, and as I have a ruby dizzy are superflous anyway.

So which link do I need to make up? a BF13 or a BF 31?

Hedd,

make a bar up the same shape as BF13 to suit your setup.

Put washers either side and secure in place with split pins or small versions the quick release thingys which hold the bonnets on Rally-type minis etc. down! Sorry, but I cannot remember the proper name for these but Mac likes them so he might be able to enlighten us! They are much easier to remove than split pins.

Good luck...

Ruairidh

I think Clevis Pin Clips are the quick release thingys you're talking about, used on rally car bonnets etc - look like a bent wire P with an extra squiggle on the leg! - available for 3/16" bar

"R clips" dear chaps

Steve.

A 'BF 13' it is, Many thanks

I may make the rod up using some ball joints, I did when fitting the carb, it gave a bit more fine ajustability.

R clips in smaller sizes are available from model remote control car shops, they are used to hold on the bodywork etc.

Regards

Rob

I have an Ulster copy with an SU carb that has the levers connected but with slightly odd results. when the foot throttle is pushed well down, it moves the hand throttle around the ring in the steering wheel.

I have a friction screw on the hand throttle, so it then sticks open. Makes changing gear interesting when I forget to quickly close the hand throttle!

Should the two levers be that closely connected, or is this symptom of a different amount of throttle required by the SU?

Thanks

Peter

Peter,

it sounds to me as though the arm on your throttle bar is fixed solid. It is supposed to move freely over the bar when you press down the pedal but pick up the bar, by means of a cutaway wedge, when you use the hand throttle lever.

Disconnect the link between the bottom of the steering column and the throttle arm and see that the arm moves up and down over the bar feely. If it doesn't this may well be your problem.

Hope this helps, not sure it's explained clearly!

Cheers

R

Ruairidh,

It does move freeley - a bit!

For small foot throttle movements it is fine - the hand lever stays put. For larger movements it gets effected. It is really the last bit of travel.

The two pieces (the pedal and the arm from the hand lever) are beside each other, and have an interlocking relationship. I could probably make the interlocking section bigger, so there was less effect between the two. I wanted to find out that there was not some other problem first!

It is also a fairly low priority problem. I would rather spend the spare time I have driving it than changing this at the moment. It is just a bit of a shock when I forget that I have been using full throttle and the engine does not slow down! Deft use of the hand lever brings it back into control.

Should the 2 pieces be touching? The control gear diagram appears to have a number of dotted pieces.

Thanks

Peter

Peter

The two parts on the left in the dotted outlines are a collar and lever for linking the advance/retard mechanism to the magneto on the earlier cars.

The original bits should have the right travel without modification as long as its all setup correctly.

You may find you have the link between the lever at the bottom of the column and the lever on the throttle linkage bar the wrong length (depending on where the linkage has been attached to the bulkhead) or you may have the lever at the bottom of the column clamped in the wrong position.

Your best bet may be to dismantle and clean the mechanism to check it is all free moving. You may be able to get someone to post pictures on the forum of where all the levers line up to work correctly on an original car. Have had a look through my pictures and i have not got it shown.

I have been trying to sort out these bits for my own ulster rep but they have not got as far as being bolted together yet.

PS quick check, the short lever at the bottom of the column connects to the advance/retard and the long one connects to the throttle. Would not help if they were the wrong way round!!

Hope that helps
Regards

Rob

Rob,

I have taken a couple of quick pictures to see if that helps anybody spot an obvious error.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s192/pjenningsUK/ThrottleLink.jpg

shows the lever end. The slightly blured nut at the top left is the throttle pedal. Where the silver coloured piece is there is a gap. When the throttle is pressed, the gap is taken up and the hand lever (gold coloured) starts to move. The friction on the top holds it open.

It is difficult to show the angles of the levers due to the limited space.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s192/pjenningsUK/CarbEnd.jpg

Shows the other end, while:

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s192/pjenningsUK/ThrottleLink.jpg

Shows the carb connection.

Any thoughts?

Peter

Hi Peter,

LIke you I cannot get a decent photo of the setup on my Ulster so here is one from the Chummy, ignore the mag connection and it appears to be the same as yours...

Hi Ruairidh,

How much gap is there between the throttle pedal and the gold coloured arm?

There is not much movement of the throttle on mine before the lever arm starts to move.

Thanks

Peter

Ruairidh

That is perfect, just what I needed, any chance of measuring the length of the link next time you are in the workshop?

Many thanks again

Hedd

Peter,

Looks like you could do with a longer link between the lever on the column and the brass lever on the bar.

The throttle control will be more linear and will move more freely if you have the link at the carb end close to 90 degrees to the lever. Ie make the link shorter if possible and rotate the pedal on the bar to suit.

Regards

Rob