A little 'for what it's worth' experience...

Yesterday my '36 Ruby boiled for the first time ever. I'd tweaked the ignition timing and thought it might be the cause, so un-tweaked it immediately. When cooled I had a look in the rad and thought there was still water in it. However, I had not peered far enough, for whilst water was sitting on the 'shelf' behind the rad core channels, these were actually dry. First lesson - look more carefully.

After a stop-start journey home (ignition timing made no noticeable difference, she still boiled) I topped up the rad and had a look for a cause. No sign of leakage. No sign of water or oil where they didn't ought to be. Then I noticed that where the lower hose curves under the dynamo it was kinked such that the water flow must have been restricted by at least 75%. The hose was actually too long by about 2 inches. A swift application of a hacksaw made it fit perfectly with no awkward bend.

Took the car out on a 10 mile test run and there was no recurrence of the steam engine impersonation. But much more surprising - there was a very marked improvement in engine power and it's running sweeter and quieter.

I'd been aware for some time that she didn't have as much 'go'as I would have expected but not having driven other Ruby's I put this down to normal 70 year old performance. Now I realise that she has probably been running over-hot ever since I first acquired the car some four years ago and that this will have caused the lack of oomph. Fiddling with the timing must have been the last straw and caused the boiling.

So, lesson number two has been learned. It's well worth checking that the H2O is actually circulating properly...

Nick

When these hoses become older the inner section can detach from the outer with the result that they compress in on themselves restricting flow, with a similar outcome to your "kinked" hose.

From the outside the hose looks normal but internally it is closing up.

Cheers

R

Ruairidh is correct as usual, hoses when old delaminate internally whilst looking okay from the outside, more so on the lower hose which is not in a straight line on the car. A good idea is to install a light-gauge wire spring inside before fitting, stops the kinking & consequently the de-laminating. Nick, re the 70 year old performance - were you speaking personally or about the car? Cheers, Bill in Oz

Sounds like the equivalent of a high cholesterol problem there. And is the spring fitted inside the hose called a stent ?

Hi Bill. 70 year old car performance, thank you very much! All plumbing and performance in this 53 year old working fine, touch wood...

I take the point about old rubber de-laminating but in my recent case the pipe appeared relatively new and supple. The problem of the kink was solely due to it being too long. (Cue, suggestive Sid James laugh)

Nick

What amazes me Nick is how did you get the bottom hose off; I've been trying to get mine off and check the situation, but as yet to no avail! Anyone any tips for removal?
Peter

Peter,

undo both hose clips and push them away from the water manifold and the bottom rad. connection.

Now take a short wooden pole or the handle of a hammer and use the blunt end to push the hose down towards the ground just below the dynamo. This forces the hose into a V shape and should prize it off the connections.

It is very difficult to inspect if the hose has collapsed inside once it's off the car as once the thermo siphon effect from the hot water in the system is removed the hose returns to it's normal shape. If in any doubt, just replace with new (cut to size).

Hope this helps

Ruairidh

Re overheating,
Although thermo siphon works most of the time I have done a modification on my Ulster replica to cure overheating. I machined an aluminum housing which is clamped to the dynamo and incorporates parts of a bronze marine engine circulating pump. The pump is driven the same way as the original fan (coil engine)with the fan still used to tension the belt. I could show a photo but have not figured out how to post this on the forum-- if anyone is interested I could e mail some pictures.

I am very impressed with all this kinky talk!

In Tasmania it is not possible to wander in to the nearest motor parts emporium and purchase ready made hoses for Austin Sevens.

While it is possible to purchase lengths of 1 & 1/4" ID Hosing from industrial suppliers, all the samples I have been able to find are really too "rigid" in the wall to be properly suitable for an Austin Seven.

What I have found though, following and hour long search in my local car parts wholesaler's bins, is that there is a hose available for a particular "Mazda" model which is the right ID and from which it should be possible to cut a bottom and top hose. The hose cost was around $A7.00 which makes it an attractive proposition.

The hose has a very slight curved section near one end which I think will be perfect to allow it to pass under the dynamo without restricting the flow of water.

I am about to actually try a fit up to my Chummy, and if everything goes to plan, I will post some pictures and provide the hose application details, part numbers etc., should anyone else be interested

Regards

Barry R.

Ken Morton has sent me some photos of his car, with water pump conversion, he wrote:

"Here are a few more photos of my car, It now has the correct wheels and is now almost finished. It has a phoenix crank, a Tim Mayal cam, a high pressure Reaburn oil pump, honda pistons, oil filter, O/S inlet valves, water pump, thermostat, remote gear change of my design, close ratio gearbox (which happens to be brand new ---never used), Jack French tappets, Stuart Rolt head, nosepiece--incorporates high pressure seals and centering bearing.

Ken Morton, Vancouver, Canada"

So there!

Cheers,

Ruairidh.