Welcome to the Austin Seven Friends web site and forum

As announced earlier, this forum with it's respective web address will go offline within the next days!
Please follow the link to our new forum

http://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/forum

and make sure, you readjust your link button to the new address!

Welcome Austin seven Friends
This Forum is Locked
Author
Comment
draglink fouling brake pivot nut

has anyone had this problem my draglink is quite badly marked after only doing one turn on my drive i did notice the steering sticking during this manoeuvre narrow drive you see i just cant seem to see whats wrong

Re: draglink fouling brake pivot nut

I have to say that i have seen no contact between brakes and steering on my Ruby, apart from when the steering box got a bit loose, manifested by the brake pedal waggling everytime I went round a corner.

My steering regularly "sticks" especially when cornering a bit hard. The car will trun it and then it feels like you're on full lock. Turn it back slightly and it will then carry on onto full lock.
It has occurred to me that this, along with a bit of play in one of the front wheels, is perhaps on the dangerous side of "fun"

Therefore a front end rebuild is in consideration shortly!

Re: draglink fouling brake pivot nut

Andy, The drag link does pass quite close to the brake pivot bolt. Do you have the correct thin nut holding the pedal on. Sounds as if you may not be starting from a central position on the steering box drop arm. If the wheels point straight ahead, the drop arm should be vertical when viewed fro the side of the car. One other point to note is that you have the correct length drag link as they are easy to fabricate. Another point could be that the steering arm on the swivel hub is bent backwards/forwards giving you exaggerated travel in one position on the steering box that would cause contact. Do some measurements and come back to us. What model A7 do you have?

Re: draglink fouling brake pivot nut

just got your reply my a7 is a 1935 ruby the drop arm is vertical with the roadwheels straight ahead the draglink is 21" long pin to pin (approx)i do have some wobble on the drop arm but not to bad.are the pins on the drag link both the same size? i have only had ruby a short time a previous owner has done work on her but i dont think she has been driven since.could the link be the wrong way round? the brake pivot nut is thin

Re: Re: draglink fouling brake pivot nut

Andy, It’s a lot easier for me to see all the bits on my Chummy than it will be for you with the Ruby. Your drag link is correct. The ball connections are the same item at both ends. The steering box does not have a travel limiter, if you disconnect the drag link you could turn it until it hit the floor. Your track rod arms should have a raised piece that contacts the axle on full lock, this is the only thing that will limit the movement of the steering drop arm.. On my Chummy there is only about 3mm clearance between the drop arm and the brake shaft on full left lock. I would suspect one of two things is wrong, either a bent steering arm or end float in the box drop arm. Look down at the drop arm as you rock the steering wheel and note if the drop arm moves in and out from the steering box. If you have movement here (there shouldn’t be any) you will have to adjust the end float shims on the button inside the box. It can be done with the steering box insitu on my Chummy, but have never done it on a Ruby, would think it may be difficult. The other point is that you have a bent steering arm on the swivel hub. They are easily bent in service. I have looked at 6 of my spares (all cracked as is usual) and was quite surprised to find a variation of 5/8” between them so cannot give you a definitive answer. I have one of the new repros fitted and would advise you to the same as buried under the wing of a Ruby are out of site out of mind. Many have be discovered cracked by people approaching the car and giving at casual glance on the early cars.

Re: draglink fouling brake pivot nut

Ian i have had another look and conclude the endfloat on my droparm is worse than i thought i have removed the box and end cover are shims avalible? everything else seems fine

Re: Re: draglink fouling brake pivot nut

The Seven Workshop used to have them, so check with them first. Very fast service. Looks like you have got to the bottom of the problem. Don’t adjust to tight on the bench as I have found it can tighten up a bit when you bolt the box to the chassis, must flex a bit in some way

Re: draglink fouling brake pivot nut

Have you got the right 'swivel axle lever' fitted, High Frame (pre Ruby) goes upwards from the hub, low frames (Rubies etc.) go down, this may be the 5/8" difference Ian has seen. E&OE....

I think that's the right way round, it's late at night and the car's gone to bed...

Sandy

Re: Re: draglink fouling brake pivot nut

The 5/8” difference was not up and down, but was from front to back

Re: Re: Re: draglink fouling brake pivot nut

I thought the same as Sandy re the low frame/high frame arm issue. I looked at mine and thought that this could have been causing the problem described?

This is the reason why I didnt fit the new uprated arms available because I think they are not available in low frame design?

Steve

Re: draglink fouling brake pivot nut

The steering arm (referred to by the Austin Motor Co. as a 'Swivel axle lever (side tube)' or from 1934 as a 'Side tube lever') was, as far as I have been able ascertain, unchanged in its basic design throughout the life of the A7. Later steering arms were slightly heavier, but they had the same Reference number (BM96) in the Parts Lists throughout. I have not found any difference between those fitted to the high frame and the low frame chassis: they all sloped up by 3 degrees. The ones for cars with lowered suspension were different, but only in that they sloped down by 8 degrees; they had a different reference number (9C134), but had the same design weakness as the standard ones.

However, the Big Seven steering arm was redesigned to eliminate the sharp bend; the modern ones are based on this design. The Big 7 arm does not curve back as far as the A7 one, so the ball-pin ends up 3/4" further away from the steering box (i.e. further forward).

The next batch of redesigned steering arms will be ready soon, and they will be available for standard cars and also for =those with lowered suspension.

David

Re: Re: draglink fouling brake pivot nut

Thank you David

That clears up some of my personal confusion!

Steve

Re: draglink fouling brake pivot nut

David,

I have had both, 3 degree's up and 3 deg down, not bent as far as I can tell - the 'down' ones have found new owners as I run high framed A7's.

Now I of course may be wrong, but I seem to recall seeing others at Beaulieu, Longleat, etc with a 'down' 3 deg arm.

Sandy

Re: draglink fouling brake pivot nut

I suppose LHD cars would demand an "inverted" arm? You wouldn't think there would be many of those, though.

Regards, Stuart