Hi,

I have just got my first Austin 7 after a long break form Morris Minors.

I have 2 small questions, my clutch and brake pedals are only workin about 5mm from the toe board. The hand brake is very effectice.

Is there any way to adjust the positon of the pedals

iain

Iain,

Clutch - The clutch pedal is secured to the cross-shaft that operates the release bearing by a clamp bolt. Adjustment is a matter of loosening the clamp bolt positioning the pedal and tightening the clamp bolt. If you look on opposite side of the gearbox to where the clutch pedal is you will see the other end of the cross-shaft that the pedal is fitted to - this has a slot in it so that the cross-shaft can be held in position while the adjustment is being made.

Brakes - If you look at the brake pedal from beneath the car you will see it is connected to the brake cross-shaft (that operates the cables) by a rod. The rod has a wingnut adjuster at the cross-shaft end.

That is the simple answer, correct adjustment is a lot more complcated and you should understand and check the whole braking system first. The Austin Seven Companion - 750 Motor Club has some good articles on the subjet.

e-mail me with your location if you need to know where to get the Austin Seven Companion, or want details of A7 clubs or specialists.

Dave Griffith

Many thanks!!

I now have brakes and a usable clutch!

I only have one other small query.

at the end of the torque tube there is some form of carrier that attaches to the chassis, this is not in line with the torque tube and turned to the left ( hard to describe) Is it normal for this carrier to be off center.

I have a strange vibration/noise if i pull of with any enthusiasm and am wondering if this carrier could be the cause


Kind Regards

Iain

I think what you're referring to is the torque tube forward mounting. It is attached to the chassis by a small ball joint which is adjustable via the hexagonal bolt underneath.

There is also adjustment available of the large ball joint which is surrounded by a castellated ring.

If either of these adjustments are slack then you'll get 'clonking' noises when taking up the drive.

The torque tube joint needs to be greased too. There is an access hatch on the prop-shaft tunnel between the front seats.

Good luck!

Iain

Sounds like the 'Torque Tube Socket' part no. BP66 is being pushed to one side by the front end of the torque tube. If nothing is obviously bent, can I suggest the problem may be rear springs of unequal length? Is there any evidence of the propshaft joints fouling the transmission tunnel?

Martin

Hi

well problems stuck with the rubbling becomeing no drive.

Removed the rhs rear wheel to discover the hub nut loose and the 1/2 shaft having moved in.

Is the half shaft tapered to the hub or is there a key

I am having real problems getting the hub off, i presume that after removing the hub i just need to carefully apply presure with a 3 legged puller?!

Iain

Just worked out that the hub splits and comes of quite easily!

The keyway has split and the hub has been only held on by the castle nut!

An ideas where i can get a new key from!

Iain

If the keyway has split (in the halfshaft or in the hub?) you may need more than a new key!
In no particular order I suggest you google

Holmesdale Sevens
Austin Seven Services
The Seven Workshop

Also, I think Dave's advice to acquire a copy of the Austin 7 Companion could save you a lot of thinking time. There are other useful books as well which I think you should read. A call to the Vintage Motorshop in Batley would be worthwhile. Richard Hunt, the proprietor, has A7 leanings and will doubtless advise. Usual disclaimers.

Regards, Stuart

New halfshafts are available here.

Much more comprehensive than the 750 Companion is the Austin Seven Manual (the big red book) - it should give you most of the answers.

David

thanks guys!

my austin 7 companion will be here with the post man soon!

I am hoping the half shaft will be ok

I need a new key and locking plate for the bearing nut

Will have a ring around tomorrow for the bits


Has any one heard of the keys shearing? or have i been unlucky

Iain

Hi. Before just slipping a new key in you must, repeat must, lap the hub onto the shaft with grinding paste until all the surface is a dull grey with no high bright spots. Then clean carefully and make sure the key fits. The key is only a "locator" and should never be driving the hub/wheel. Many racing A7s in the past lapped the hubs on so carefully they didn't even bother with the key. There's every chance the reason the key's broken is that the hub has slopped backwards and forwards on it to break it. I'm assuming there are no cracks around the keyway and it's just the key that's the problem. Good Luck. Bill in Oz

Thanks Bill

Having had a more detailed look, i think the hub has been slopping about, as the split pin has failed allowing the castle nut to loosen. Hub and half shaft will need a lot of lapping to get the marks of the metal.

Having looked at all 4 hubs i think the previous owner has neglected to grease the hubs as they are all bone dry.

( have just converted all the grease nipples over to modern ones )

Iain

Hi Iain,

The failure of your key was caused by a common mistake. Many people fit the hub, tighten up the castle nut, fit the split-pin and think 'job done'. Wrong. You should tighten the castle nut and fit the split-pin if possible. If it's not possible, don't worry, just keep tightening the nut every time you service the car. Keep checking the nuts are tight and don't bother too much about the split-pin.

David

Iain,

Just re-read your post (what a pity I can't edit my postings on this forum).

> Hub and half shaft will need a lot of lapping to get the marks of the metal.

Beware of over-doing the lapping. If lapped too much, the half-shaft can move so far through the outer hub that the gear on the inner end of the halfshaft can bind on the inside of the diff carrier and lock up the differential.

David

Thanks David. In my previous note I actually typed the same thing in then scrubbed it as , being an optimist (or is it realist?), these dastardly things usually only happen to me, not to others. I didn't wish to frighten Iain off A7s altogether!! Perhaps good advice. It appears that he's fortunate the errant key hasn't broken away the keyway. Cheers, Bill in Oz.

this is exactly what has just happened to me. my first breakdown rescue with only 5 months of ownership under my belt. Luckily I had an expert in the club who actually did the repair. I just watched and hopefully learnt for next time. Both castle nuts were only finger tight (literally) and one key had sheared cleanly off in the keyway. They have now been air hammered in place with new keys, nuts etc with the opportunity taken to replace the bearings. Any thoughts on how oftern I should check and retighten?

luckly i think i will be ok, hub and shart have a little marking bit fit very snuggly when pushed on and i had to use my puller to get the hub back off.

Will take some pics and post them to my site this weekend for referance.

Have ordered the bits and will be here friday so I will let you know how it goes

Well good news , i lapped the hub onto the shaft as best as I could and my 7 is back on the road, have posted some pics on web and pointed my old moggie page to the seven's

http://www.turbominor.eu/ have a look and let me know what u think! ( http://www.aqsd98.dsl.pipex.com if the reg has messed up again)


Had a bit of a scare, dropped the original oil out of the sump today and a small bolt dropped in to my oil tray..... removed the sum and found it was one of the ones holding the gauze in