Hi everybody,
I've owned my '33 RP saloon for 11 years and 14,000 happy miles, but I know I'm going to have to take the engine out soon because the clutch has so little movement now, I can only just disengage it with the pedal very hard to the deck. Its also been dragging badly for years.
I assume that when I get it out I'm going to find everything's worn, toggle levers, pegs and pins and deep wear grooves in the cover plate.
From what I've picked up, the best solution is to weld up the grooves where the toggle levers bear and then file back to flat. Can anyone advise as to whether this is the best approach and if so, what type of welding process is best and are there any pitfalls or special difficulties.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

I much prefer the grub screw method as detailed in the Companion. It doesn't require any heat, adjustment is easy, the toggles can be set very accurately and it takes only a few minutes to do. Use new levers and pins for the best job.

Once set, and the grub screws fixed in place with a dab of Loctite, it becomes very much a fit-and-forget option.

STEVE

Save me a go in yours at Butts, Steve. I did Richard's and it worked well! We didn't use the grub-screw method (which is fine btw) but used the new finger method. This is similar to the gently bent finger method that only works when the pivots are still sweet. Pivots are never truly sweet in any used Seven clutch I've seen.

Of course Jim. Filled in the forms today. See you there.

I like the grub screw system because you can set the three levers up very accurately. I measure the distances with the tail on the vernier calipers and can set them all to exactly the same measurement because the grub screws give such fine adjustment - particularly with new levers and pins. Coupled with Kevlar based clutch linings, it gives the best A7 clutch I've ever known - and it doesn't light up on the more 'challenging' of stop and re-starts!!

STEVE

Jim could you describe how you did Richards clutch in detail please

Hi John, I assume you are used to the grub-screw stuff in The Companion (I must get myself a copy.... note for Santa) and the ?three varieties of finger. The fingers I referred to in 'doing' Richards are in fairly good condition and have the T-shaped ends. The fulcrum/pivots will wear in use, producing progressively less foot control or movement.
We have all experienced cars with virtually zero ability to slip a clutch. A longer effort arm gives that subtlety. You need to make the most of the limited space, and to that end, be sure to have little play in each finger. The pressure plate needs to be close to 'right there' with the fingers (Steve's grub-screws do this to perfection) and those fingers need to be able to fully operate without pain but allow you to progressively disengage or 'slip' the clutch. Look at your pedals, too.
Do you really want me to show and tell the way to drill, punch-out, strip & reassemble then rivet and check the state of the springs.....?
As a point of minor interest, I added three extra springs within the six, because we wanted to climb trees with it. The proof of the success was being able to climb out of Buttermere Old Road this year, by a judicious bit of clutch control.
New fingers.
Tight pivots.
Care with clearances.
Symmetry.
Don't mess about with weary 'originals'.
Hard steel pins matter.
Pedals.
Look out for duff springs.
I expect I've missed something. Steve misses stuff, too, but his advice is pretty good.

Hi Jim,
Thanks for all the info thats makes it clear.
Regards John

Hi Steve,
Thanks for your suggestion. I waited a few days to see if anyone else had anything to say about welding, but obviously it's not in favour. I take your point about the easy setting up with the grub screw method. I'm not an engineer but I'm sure I can find someone to drill & tap and fit grub screws for me. But will those grub screws really stay put with just Loctite ?
Back to the Companion to read up the procedure again.

Tom

TOM: Yes they do stay in place. I've just taken down a clutch set up this way that has had 6 years of VSCC trialling - about as rough treatment as you could get - and the grub screws are exactly where I left them when I put them in. As far as drilling/tapping is concerned, all you need is a tapping drill and tap for the size of screws you intend to use + a tap wrench. I use 1/4"BSF. The location for the hole is simple because it is provided by the wear in the clutch cover where the levers pivot.

STEVE

Thanks Steve, you've made it sound so simple, I'm tempted to borrow the necessary bits and have a go myself.
One useful point is that I've got a spare engine, although it's a '37 3 bearing one, and its been useful to study and take apart the clutch to see what I'm dealing with before I strip my own out of the car. The clutch cover may not be identical because the later clutch has got the friction linings on the clutch plate, not on the flywheel, as I assume mine is, but I'm guessing they're pretty much the same. At least it gives me an idea what I'm dealing with before I start.
As usual with every job I attempt on my Austins, the pressure's on for a quick, smooth repair because my cars are all used for wedding work !!
Oh, how I wish I'd had some engineering training, or even done metalwork at school !
thanks again,

Tom