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clutch adjustment???

hi guys, I've a 1927 chummy and I'm running out of clutch, only about 25mm to the floor,I've had a look and can't find anyway to adjust it. The peddle is fitted to the shaft with what looks like a cotter pin, i've tried to move the peddle on the shaft ...no go ! what am I missing . By the way thanks to the guys that put their time in to run this site, very interesting and most helpfull.
Geoff ' NZ

Re: clutch adjustment???

Geoff

It might be the pedal turned on the shaft, which has happened to me before. The nut and bolt can be slackened and the pedal rotated if you hold the clutch shaft still from the other side of the gearbox.

Its just as likely to be a problem with worn parts. The operating levers wear, along with the fulcrum point on the clutch cover. New parts are available, and I think that the subject of repairing the pivot point was covered recently on this forum? This would of course require a gearbox removal.

How bad is it? You might just be able to use it like it is?

Steve

Re: clutch adjustment???

Just make sure that the cotter is done up tight. I was fooled into thinking that I had a *serious* clutch problem by a loose cotter once.

Of course you could just have a *serious* clucth problem that means a clutch rebuild.....

Charles

Re: clutch adjustment???

Hew clutch toggles etc. available at 7 Workshop. tel +44 1225 868696.

Re: clutch adjustment???

if its not the cotter, you'll have to take the engine and gearbox out, and split them.

Take off the clutch cover, and look how much friction material there is. If you'r not on the rivetts, there is life yet. If you are you'll have to relign the flywheel and pressure plate.

Now put it all back together. and set the toggles in the slot on the clutch cover, than put a straight edge accross the 'bell housing' on the engine crankcase. When I set my clutch I aim to get 'about' 6 to 8mm between the straight edge and the end of the toggles. More importantly is that they are something like the same distance. Any more means you may not have enough travel to disengage the clutch, any less means the clutch will open as you fit the gearbox and it'll slip.

Sounds to me like your toggles are currently too far in for whatever reason, i.e the measurement will be more than 8mm. To fix, simply bend them outwards, I do this with some gentle heat, a stout screwdriver as a wedge and a 'persuader', no doubt I'll get called a butcher, but it works for me. A tip is that the toggles can be rotated, so you can bend them 'out' by knocking against the pressure plate.

Another tip is when you put the gearbox back on is that there is a master spline. And the toggles fit in the slot in the clutch bearing.

When the gearbox is back on try the pedal, move it towards the driver, and then towards the engine, there should be a little play before it starts to move the clutch bearing. Cant remeber how much, but there should be some. If there isn't, bend the toggles in more, if there is loads, bend them out.

The 6 to 8mm isnt hard and fast, it depends what kind of spanner monkey has been at the parts in the past, but it will give you a starting point.

Re: clutch adjustment???

thanks guys for your help on this,haven't had a chance to take another look at it yet

Re: Re: clutch adjustment???

what we have done is to to drill & tap a hole under the leverarms stop.We fit a hardened set screw to fit the thread.This can then adjust the height of the arms to the correct lift of the arms.It also alowes the ajustment ata latter date.We have that the lever arms we are getting are too brittle to bend & break