Hi Friends,
I have 1937 Ruby which I have just fitted new head studs to, but water is seeping up two of the studs will it eventually seal it self or not . Has anyone got any ideas what to do ? I don't really want to take the head off again
Edd

Not an uncommon problem and they normally seal themselves up quite quickly after a bit of running.

We had a discussion on here a few months ago about what sealing agent, if any, to use on the head gasket. Many of use suggested a smear of Copperslip or similar on both the gasket faces was all that was required and a benefit of this is that is usually prevents the seepage problem you are experiencing.

I saying that, I have recently had a slight seepage from the nearside edge of a recently fitted gasket. Only very, very minor and just showing as a very slight dampness, when cold, on the flange of the exhaust manifold but this too has now sealed after some use and it no longer occurs.

STEVE

I had a similar problem. front stud had a small puddle from start up, not enough to drip. I cannot remember when it stopped, just that when I was doing some other work a few weeks later I noticed that it wasn't doing it any more.

A number of years ago (oh alright, many years ago) I was involved in building large gas and diesel engines. Leaks through studs or small casting defects were dealt with by using sal-amoniac in the cooling water which quickly rusted the iron and steel and closed the leak within minutes. As soon as this happened, the solution was drained and the engine flushed several times with fresh water to prevent further rusting. Perhaps this could be adopted for small leaks in A7 engines.

Hello Eddie, yes its very common to get a leak from new studs they will eventually seal themselves, but to help them on there way a little "Rad Seal" or "Bars" will do the trick.
John

Hi Brian,
Thanks for your reply I don't suppose you know where to buy this product as i have never heard of it.
Thanks again.
Eddie

Hello Eddie, it should be available in small quantities from chemical suppliers and anyone selling soft soldering equipment. Having said that, it is probably much easier to use the Barrs or a similar product from a car accessory shop

Sal Ammoniac is also used to seal leaky rivetted boilers.

A cheap alternative that works a treat is urine. And no I'm not taking the p1ss

However, with Barrs etc. you run the risk of blocking the radiator if it has a traditional style core. If you run/use the car, the weeping will stop all by itself. Don't use anti-freeze, however, until it has.

STEVE

Mine leaked from most studs , and soon stopped by itself, although when I replaced some head studs I used some Loctite to see if it helped? Wish I had known about the urine solution, would have had fun winding up the neighbours with my antics!

I found that the side water branch was also difficult to seal?

Steve.

May I add my "two pennoth"... when replacing any stud that goes into the water jacket I have found that no leaks will occur from the newly installed stud if the Thread is wound with plumbers white PTFE tape. The way I get a seal on side water branch studs is to run a bead of silcon round the stud, put on a lead washer (I punch them out of lead flashing) then a stainless plain washer and the nut . tighten up and it's fine. In order to stop the gasket from squeezing out, I glue it the the branch with adhesive, put gasget seal on the other side and bolt up.

Has anyone checked what effect if any Sal Ammoniac has on the aluminium? And on the copper radiator tubes etc for that matter? Forgive me if I sound alarmist, but I'm reminded of the trouble with electrolis we had in marine engines in Southern waters (we cured it by suspending zinc rods in the block). Wouldn't want similar problems with your A7. Also I agree re Bars, you'll end up with the bottom tubes & tank full of pellets and an earlier rebuild than necesary. Cheers, Bill

Yes Bill your quite right about "Bars" which is why I recommend just a "little" bit! Last year I had to strip an engine which had been "Sealed" with bars. The side water branch was full of what looked like Rice Pudding! and it took forever to clean out the radiator.
Regards,John

You think Bars is bad.
Try Wonderweld for real industrial strength clogging ability.

Charles

Bill’s comments remind me of the old joke/ truism that surrounded the Radflush and Radweld products of the post-war era. Both were efficacious in their way, and did what it said on the tin.

But however, the story went thus ….


One tin Radweld
One tin Radflush
Two tins Radweld
Two tins Radflush
Three tins Radweld
Three tins Radflush
Take the radiator to the repairers!



Coleman’s mustard powder DOES do the trick as well, I speak from experience.

Mike

I have always coated both side of the head gasket with a thin layer of grease &have had no leaks.One of our members has used the same gasket 4 times with no problems, the car has been to Darwin. Melbourne,from Perth in W>A.I usual retension the head every 6 months depending on the milage & time standing unused.