Right,

Need some advice, what is acceptable when it comes to small rust bubbles on the paint work?

I have started on some bits and the finish has been good. However the bits I have done involved rubbing the rust bubbled, killing the rust and repainting via spraying in aerosols. As the amount of rust bubbles becomes more sparse, its not justifiable to do it the way i have dealt with them.
So from the pictures that I've attached, do you think its acceptable to leave the minor bubbles from repair??

Location: United Kingdom

Patina............

Location: Chezvegas

Well if we consider Ruby's to be a work of art, it's patinated.
Do you suggest repaintation?

Location: United Kingdom

There are thoseof us who are happy with the oily rag approach and those who need a concours de elegance, YOU have to choose what approach you want to take,. Nobody is WRONG.

Location: Basingstoke

Well said Mr S!

I have often wondered if a tool to deal with spots such as this is available. I am thinking of something like an abrasive stick say 5/16 in diameter that would go in an electric drill. Trouble with spot treatment is that it always shows.
Dave

Location: Bonnie Galloway

dave
have you tried a Spot Blaster, the area can be further reduced if you cut a hole in some insulating tape the size you require, the grit does not effect the tape, just bounces off.
assuming you have a compressor

Location: Basingstoke

Thanks for that Derek. I have a cabinet blaster, but not big enough for a whole car!
I might try to make up an abrasive stick and try it - something like a sharpening stone. I have a pointed wire brush, but on a trial today it only seems to polish the rust spot.
Dave

Location: Bonnie Galloway

Spot blaster:



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ECONOMY-SHOT-SPOT-SAND-BLASTER-BLASTING-TOOL-KIT-GRIT-REMOVE-RUST-PAINT-GREASE-/271301890080?pt=UK_Air_Tools_and_Compressors&hash=item3f2ada5020

I bought a spot blaster from Lidl recently for £5.50 (I think). Not as sophisticated as Ruairidh's version in that it has no provision for directing the abrasive or collecting it.
I had a go with it when I got it home but the only sand I had was the kiln dried type that is used for filling the joints in block paving but it worked quite well on slightly rusted mild steel.
There is an advantage with the total loss system because I can fill in the block paving joints at the same time as sand blasting!

Location: Near M1 Jtn 28

For my plastic modelling, I use an electric toothbrush to remove those hard to get at ejection pin marks.
Should work on full size model rust spots.
Method:
1) Remove the bristles
2) Glue a suitable piece of plastic/wood rod on
3) Glue a bit of abrasive sheet onto the wood.
4) Turn on and Bob's your Mother's brother.

Your 'rust measles' look as if they cover the whole car.
Mine do, but haven't bubbled through from the undercoat.
They are only on the surface said undercoat, hence my decision to do a bare metal repaint.

Ruairidh,
Ta for the link.
Just bought one.

Geoff - Making progress making the Sky Hook

Location: South Norfolk - Near Suffolk

Well I have to do a bare metal repaint on one of the rear side panels so depending how well that does will dictate how much further i go...

Cheers for your responses.

Location: United Kingdom

Hi Jasper. How are you going about the new paintwork? Having done a fair bit of d.i.y. spray painting myself, there are some things which you might like to consider. One of the most common problems that crop up when working in less than ideal conditions is micro blistering. This is caused by moisture. Air leaves the compressor hot and wet so I have made my own air dryer out of 1/2" copper tubing which goes in a zig-zag fashion up the wall to the filter with drop legs for draining down. A flexible hose connects the pipework to the compressor. Moisture condenses out onto the insides of the tubing before getting to the filter thus giving it an easier time. Of course, damp atmospheric conditions will also cause micro blistering so do it on a dry day with little or no wind if working inside the garage with the door open.
I have also invested in an oil free compressor which negates the need for an oil filter in the air line.

Location: Derby

Cheers Ray,
Shall definitely bear that in mind. I am going to do some experimenting first i think, hopefully get it right! I also can borrow a spray gun that is a one of those really fancy ones with multiple inbuilt filters. I ordered the primer today and thinners so this week end I should be able to give it a go.

Location: United Kingdom

I would also get a can of panel wipe. You can also use it for general cleaning. Tack cloths are also worth while. Also be sure the mask that you use has the right type of filter in it - they all look similar but have different applications. As to thinners, top gloss is too expensive to waste on cleaning the gun - you will find a can of cheap gun wash is worth getting.
Good idea to leave a dehumidifier in the garage after painting.
Any questions don't hesitate to ask.

Location: Derby

For tiny spots such those as in your photos, you may like to try a v.small wire brush in a Dremel; you can achieve ST 3 surface finish standard (see http://www.hmgpaint.com/knowledge-base/pdf/KNB0026.pdf ) quite easily, which is good enough to paint over.

Regards,

Location: A cool Tuesday in the Caucasus

Cheers again Ray, the dehumidifier sounds a wise idea!
With regards to cleaning, I've got solvent cleaner which does a great job of removing grease etc, I am assuming panel wipe is pretty much the same but just has a 'name' on it?

Thanks Vin, thats a good resource page.

Location: United Kingdom

Sorry Jasper I don't know if there are different solvents in panel wipe or if all solvent cleaners are the same.

By the way, you might not know that at this time of year "anti bloom" thinners are used more. It just saves on finishing time.

Location: Derby

Ah... Just bought normal cellulose thinners this morning... Explains why anti bloom was more popular in the ranking!

Location: United Kingdom

No worries, Jasper. The beauty of good old nitro paint is you can get away with so much more than the stuff they use these days. Just give it a few days to harden off and cut it back. Lovely stuff nitro.

Location: Derby

I have read the correspondence with interest, wanting to learn by others experience and in the knowledge that I have to deal with a nasty case of micro blisters on my RP.

I was introduced to a product "Fertan Rust Converter" in 1985. I had just bought a new Renault 4 van and made a 2" scratch on the nearside with the handle of a wheelbarrow, right through to the metal. Rather cross with myself and fearing that the red lace would soon follow I was reassured that an application of Fertan would do the trick. I borrowed some and painted on one application to wet steel.
I never got around to painting over the scratch and in 2001, the van was scrapped after being punted up the back (inevitably by a young driver with no insurance) It sat on my drive for two years while I mourned its passing and was finally towed to the scrap man. The 2" black scar was still there and had not spread at all. the edges being firmly attached paint.
I have recently moved my workshop and retrieved a steel workbench that had sat under tarps in the garden for two and half years. It had a lot of surface rust on the bare top and the legs were quite scabby where they had been exposed. An hour with a wire brush in an angle grinder and a coat of Fertan has transformed it into a rust free black steel bench. I shall get around to painting it later (well maybe). There is no rust after six weeks and it smells great.

No connection but a happy user

http://www.fertan.co.uk/Item-Fertan%20rust%20converter.htm

Location: Struggling to keep clear of the mud in Oxford Town!

Hello Jack. There are many products on the market which claim to be rust converters and they all work in a similar way but with varying results. Like you, I found Fertan back in the '80's and have found nothing else better. It's ideal for petrol tanks when used in conjunction with Tapox sealer which is the only one which claims to be "ethanol proof" as opposed to "ethanol resistant".

As far as your micro blisters are concerned; it all depends on whether or not the problem is with the top coat or the primer. If you are lucky, you may be able to cut back the paint and remove most if not all the blisters. All cellulose paint is porous to a certain extent but the primer more so than the colour coats. If left in less than perfect conditions primer can absorb moisture from the air only to get trapped by the subsequent coats. Body filler is also porous so never be tempted to flatten down filler or high build (primer) with wet and dry. I always use glass paper rather than sand paper as it's more stable. Sometimes wet on wet (just allowing coats to flash off) is a better bet than leaving paint to cure. It's a trade off depending on the conditions/ condensation risk.

Location: Derby

The dreaded orange peel.
One trick I learned when spraying over repairs to the paint on my racing Anglia, no not crash damage, but blistered paint when I welded in a roll cage, is to use fine wet & dry to get rid of orange peel, the last being the finest available, then a good polish.
Works a treat.
Used to wear my arms out with rubbing down compound before this trick.
Wet&dry does the same thing, just so much more quickly.
It also allows for a good thick coverage where needed, without trying for that pristine out the gun finish.
Experts will no doubt be groaning at this approach, but life is just too short and getting shorter.
When I am able to get the desired finish straight from the gun I will do so, but not if that causes me grief.

Geoff - SkyHook done, just needs camera attachment and painting.

Location: South Norfolk - Near Suffolk

Location: Shropshire

Following Oxford Jack's glowing recommendation for Fertan, I bought some and have used it on a rusty Chassis, the results are very pleasing, cheers Jack!

Tis my pleasure, glad it worked for you

Location: Oxford Town in the sun