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starting handle shaft, pin, and seal?

Re-assembling the starting handle and nosecone etc I have a couple of questions if you will please.

Is there any kind of oil seal where the shaft comes through the nosecone (front cover)?

And what is it best to do with a loose pin in the starting handle shaft? The pin rotates freely but also moves a lot along it's length. What holds the pin in? Is it meant to rotate or can I weld the pin in place?

Many thanks.

Re: starting handle shaft, pin, and seal?

Having had that pin fall out I can answer about what holds it in :)

It's waisted in the middle, and a dink in the end of the shaft holds it in place. I ended up making a new one to get everything snug.

As to a seal, I'd like to know that too, as the oil coming out makes my number plate oily

Andy

Location: Oxfordshire

Re: starting handle shaft, pin, and seal?

A 'dink'? Never heard of this. Tried google but still can't figure out - what is a dink please?

Re: starting handle shaft, pin, and seal?

andrew34ruby
A 'dink'? Never heard of this. Tried google but still can't figure out - what is a dink please?


I'm sure there is a technical description, but hold something like a 1/8" punch against the end of the shaft and smack it with a hammer

Have a look at the shaft, it should be clear.

Location: Oxfordshire

Re: starting handle shaft, pin, and seal?

Andrew,

I have always called this a 'centre pop' ?

Tony.

Location: Malvern, Victoria, Australia.

Re: starting handle shaft, pin, and seal?

it is not the oil coming out which matters so much but water going in. In the days when cars were everyday transport and stood outside permanently, was a significant contribution to main bearing deterioration. I believe early cars with the threaded bush had some leather seal. With those cars it may be practicable to turn a groove and fit an O ring, but it would slightly spoil the feel of the main diagnostic instrument.

Bob Culver

Location: Auckland

Re: starting handle shaft, pin, and seal?

Perhaps worth mentioning that the pin needs to be made from a high quality steel such as a high tensile steel bolt. A big end bolt is just about long enough if you turn off the head. File a small groove in the centre of the pin, fit with Loktite stud lock and thump the end of the shaft into the groove as previously described.
Ron

Location: Thornbury S Glos

Re: starting handle shaft, pin, and seal?

With regards to oil leaking from the starting handle and leaving oil marks on the number plate etc. I was told some years ago by an experienced austin 7 owner and mechanic. That the starting handle when not in use should be kept in a position at 3/4 past TDC or in other words where 9 would be on a clock face. For some reason that I am not sure of this prevents the oil from leaking from the front of the nose cone.

Yours John Mason
Robin Hood Country

Location: Nottinghamshire

Re: starting handle shaft, pin, and seal?

The handbooks that I have seen state that the starting handle should be parked at 9 o'clock when not being used and an illustration shows a leather washer that seals the gap when in that position. Many copies of handbooks can be viewed on the Austin Seven Clubs Association website:
http://www.a7ca.org/

Location: Near M1 Jtn 28

Re: starting handle shaft, pin, and seal?

And always park the car facing uphill...

You can buy a "dink" from B & Q. They're on the shelf next to the round tooits and the glass hammers.

Location: Soaking wet but mild southern France

Re: starting handle shaft, pin, and seal?

I like to have a packet of benzene rings in the car just in case of a shortage of fuel on a trip - so much easier than a 1 gallon can.