I do not claim authorship of this snippet, which in fact comes from the Morris 8 forum (yes I hold my hands up, I am both a card carrying member and own a 1937 Series2 four door saloon, but no apologies)
However I do have experience of most effective mix, which I learnt of some years ago from an retired garage owner of Brixham.

I give no guarantees of its authority or effectiveness, other than previously mentioned. I cannot either authenticate the test results or procedure, proceed with caution.


Machinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports the break out torque values on rusted nuts using the tested penetrating oils. Results are below. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils ....Average torque load to loosen*
No Oil used .................. 516 pounds
WD-40 ........................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix......... 53 pounds

The ATF*-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50% - 50% by volume automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price! Steve from Godwin-Singer says that the ATF*-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF* and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.
*Automatic Transmission fluid

Location: United Kingdom

Don't forget to use a well stoppered container, or it will quickly become neat ATF!

Dave

Location: Bonnie Galloway

I have tried this mix over the last five days on a very seized outboard motor clamp, steel bolt in an aluminum thread. I dosed it liberally each day and left it to work. Or not work as the case may be!

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=646523462085854&l=0dff032c46

As you can see, it was a total failure!

It may work ok on rusted items but it sure doesn't on ali and steel!

Stuart

Location: Sunny Devon

In the past I've variously used WD40, duck oil, and plusgas. I'm going to give 'normfest super crack ultra' a try next, it may be snake oil, but I like the idea of using temperature without getting the blow lamp out. Anyone tried it, or 'loctite freeze and release'?
Andy

Location: Oxfordshire

Re Stuarts outboard motor clamp. I think I read some time ago in a publication I cannot rember (Age creeps up) That when aluminium and steel are put together for a period of time a process of electrocation occures this infact welds the two componets together (this used to happen with brake cylinders fitted with steel bleed screws in the 70s) In those days you had to have new cylinders to overcome the problem.

Yours John Mason.

Location: Nottinghamshire

An Aluminium (non-ferrous) block with steel (ferrous) studs, that has been untouched for some time, and also possibly exposed to (salt?) water is a recipe for well & truly stuck.

Removing the 'Supalloy' head from my engine during a rebuild was the very devil of a lengthy job involving penetrating oil, heat, a lot of bad language and the measured application of some brute force & ignorance. The head eventually came off but I understand that the 'works' cat learnt a lot of new words in the process and the invoice was eye-wateringly large.

Heat, penetrating oil and the odd bit of shock treatment with a hammer are the only real options.

Location: Lincolnshire for the rest of the week