Hi all. where can i get a pair of bent steel drop links for the front radius arms? W

I think David Cockrain and Tony Betts both do them, links in the cherished suppliers list, others may do them too.

All the best

Stuart.

Location: Devon

Thanks, i knew David does cast ends. I'd prefer the incorrect type for various fickle reasons, and price! W

Dont forget the tube between them on the radius arm as well.

Location: Getting potatoes in

Winston, not sure you can buy the type you want?
I made my own out of steel flat stock and made a jig to get them right. You need a tubular spacer to take up the gap were the axle normally goes when fitting them to the radius arms and big nuts and bolts to bolt the brackets to the axle.
You will need to heat the steel to bend it, so maybe your localblacksmith could help?
Steve

Location: patrolling the border

The bolts and tubes are easy! Off to the Agri-Fab shop tomorrow i think.......W

The ones that I supply are fabricated (from steel), not cast. I have seen too many cast ones that have broken.

David

I have seen too many cast ones that have broken.

David[/quote]

not my ones david.

many people have tried making these over the years.

i`ve had reports they were made in aluminium, and people were braking them wilst fitting them. let alone in use.

they were then sold as brass or bronze, these were not actually brass or bronze. they were made from a material that may get called M27. it aluminium with a high zinc content. when cast it is the colour of brass. many foundries today call it mazak. it very good for badges etc as it chromes well.

someone might have actually produced them in brass, but i dont want to go into nameing names.

i could have stocked the welded steel ones myself, but as they are a steering and brake part. which this catagory of parts should not be welded. i didn`t bother for liability reasons. (this is why we should still have some sort of MOT). as many old values still apply.

after seeing so many veriations over the last 25 years, i invested in £600 worth of patterns. and had them cast in steel. as per the original.

but austin 7 owners and builders are welcome to buy and fit whatever they want. tony

Location: back in the warm

Thanks Tony, that sums up my fears regarding these. Yours sound like the answer for a fully authentic rebuild . All the best, Winston

thanks winston,

i didn`t want to comment early on this one, as you were looking for the usually cheaper plates.

i think john barlow done them years ago. but i`ve not known him to have any in recent years.

most of what comes up for sale secondhand look to be old super accessories or simular.

looks like you may have to make some.

tony.

ps: hope you enjoyed the tour round the vintage scrapyard that is our garden the other day, recon we could charge for tours, o.a.p.s 1/2 price

Location: back in the warm

I have a pair of the steel drop links on my ulster, I ended up having the spacer tube welded between the two plates and then had the whole lot welded onto the radius arms. Normally they would be secured by the bolt end of the radius arm. In my case the radius arms are Girling type that had been butchered by having the top mounting lug removed, so I did not worry about having them welded, as they were no good for anything else.
Speaking to an ulster owner recently, he told me that you can have problems if the drop plates turn slightly, as it upsets the caster etc. I suspected this before deciding to have the whole lot welded. I got a set of the stainless double shockers from Tony Betts and these are located at the ends of the radius arms so they add additional location for the front axle. The proof of the pudding will be in the driving but the front end should be well planted!

In The Light Car, December 1934, L Williams suggested dropping the radius rods using a drop link made from two shaped plates, a 1/2" long 3/4" tube and 3/4" bolt 2 1/2" long. - No mention of the plate thickness, but I suppose this is set by the other dimensions.

Tony.

Location: Malvern, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia