Thanks Tony, that sums up my fears regarding these. Yours sound like the answer for a fully authentic rebuild . All the best, Winston

thanks winston,

i didn`t want to comment early on this one, as you were looking for the usually cheaper plates.

i think john barlow done them years ago. but i`ve not known him to have any in recent years.

most of what comes up for sale secondhand look to be old super accessories or simular.

looks like you may have to make some.

tony.

ps: hope you enjoyed the tour round the vintage scrapyard that is our garden the other day, recon we could charge for tours, o.a.p.s 1/2 price

Location: back in the warm

I have a pair of the steel drop links on my ulster, I ended up having the spacer tube welded between the two plates and then had the whole lot welded onto the radius arms. Normally they would be secured by the bolt end of the radius arm. In my case the radius arms are Girling type that had been butchered by having the top mounting lug removed, so I did not worry about having them welded, as they were no good for anything else.
Speaking to an ulster owner recently, he told me that you can have problems if the drop plates turn slightly, as it upsets the caster etc. I suspected this before deciding to have the whole lot welded. I got a set of the stainless double shockers from Tony Betts and these are located at the ends of the radius arms so they add additional location for the front axle. The proof of the pudding will be in the driving but the front end should be well planted!

In The Light Car, December 1934, L Williams suggested dropping the radius rods using a drop link made from two shaped plates, a 1/2" long 3/4" tube and 3/4" bolt 2 1/2" long. - No mention of the plate thickness, but I suppose this is set by the other dimensions.

Tony.

Location: Malvern, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia