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Re: How heavy

wmim54
Nick,

If you position your car under your cross beam and then fix two temporary vertical timber members each side so as to reduce the span and take the weight, you can easily and safely use a small chain hoist to lift the engine (without the gearbox). As others have said, have enough room to roll the car backwards so the engine will clear the engine bay when you have the engine lifted. You need to tilt the engine higher at the front.

See pictures of my RK.

Bryan

 photo DSC_0214med.jpg

 photo DSC_0225med.jpg


Re: How heavy

I like your approach Rob but just for belt & braces you should have Martins trolley jack underneath.

John Mason

Location: Nottinghamshire home of Robin Hood

Re: How heavy

My garage has a big steel beam like that - it spans 8 meters and is 33cm x 16cm in section. Weighs about half a tonne. An A7 engine & gearbox dangling from it makes no difference...

Re: How heavy

Someone has just emailed me with the same idea. So simple why did I not think of that, thank you. It is now the plan!

Location: Devon

Re: How heavy

I have no problem getting the engine out of the car. I have given my back some agro this morning lifting the engine onto my bench.I have done it dozens of times before.Must be getting old and knackered!
Dave.

Location: Sheffield

Re: How heavy

Dave Wortley
Must be getting old and knackered!
Dave.


What do you mean "getting"...



I must admit I have never ever split the engine & gearbox before removal. The two come out fine together (with a bit of waggling) and if the gearbox does have to be removed I find that it's much easier to re-align the box to the flywheel splines on the bench rather in the car.

But whatever floats your boat...

Re: How heavy

Bryan Downes

 photo DSC_0214med.jpg


Stage right, what is it please Bryan?

Re: How heavy

There are few rafters which will not support a chin up by a reasonable person; equates to a Seven engine so a good test. It may be possible to pull or cut a few nails and insert say a 6 inch wide L shape sheet metal strip between the twin 4x2.
On my house I inserted an axle shaft through two parallel floor beams and used to lift one end of a family size car for routine servicing.

Bob Culver

Location: Auckland

Re: How heavy


Ruiaridh,

Not sure where you mean?

Bryan.

Re: How heavy

What's behind the engine? Looks to to be a bigger car of some sort.

Re: How heavy

Reckless Rat
Dave Wortley
Must be getting old and knackered!
Dave.


What do you mean "getting"...



I must admit I have never ever split the engine & gearbox before removal. The two come out fine together (with a bit of waggling) and if the gearbox does have to be removed I find that it's much easier to re-align the box to the flywheel splines on the bench rather in the car.

But whatever floats your boat...


Location: Herefordshire, with an E not a T

Re: How heavy

Nick,

A Forum search on engine weight gives lots of information-

http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=2099944454&frmid=5&msgid=914328&cmd=show

Tony.

Location: Malvern, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

Re: How heavy

Bob Culver
There are few rafters which will not support a chin up by a reasonable person; equates to a Seven engine so a good test. It may be possible to pull or cut a few nails and insert say a 6 inch wide L shape sheet metal strip between the twin 4x2.
On my house I inserted an axle shaft through two parallel floor beams and used to lift one end of a family size car for routine servicing.

Bob Culver



As someone who designs and builds high-end timber sectional buildings as the "day job", I'd advise great caution in using the garage roof structure for lifting.

Historically in England and Wales, buildings up to 320 square feet didn't have to comply with Building Regulations as far as structural calculations were concerned - it was (and largely still is) entirely up to the builder to select the materials they think appropriate. While I would use stress-graded 8"x 2" timber in a 16' roof truss, I've seen commercially-made buildings of the same span with 2"x 2" trusses in cheap, knotty timber - wholly inadequate even to support the roof, let alone to carry any additional load.

The same comments apply to steel roof structures. I wouldn't use the lighweight trusses in most pre-fab concrete garages for lifting.

Unless they manufacturer can assure you that the roof structure is up to the job, I wouldn't do it.

Location: Herefordshire, with an E not a T

Re: How heavy

I now have confirmation from the manufacturers that my trusses will easily support 120kg so I am ok. However the thread has thrown up some interesting an amusing comments. Now need a hoist and straps.

Location: Devon

Re: How heavy

Were n Devon are you?
Stuart has the active Devon club , but if you are anywere near the front line there are several Cornwall club members whom I'm sure would help.
Steve.

Location: South East Cornwall

Re: How heavy

I am touch with Stuart and have/am joining the DevonSevens. I am quite a way from the border- near Crediton but have studied your excellent website from top to bottom.

Location: Devon

Re: How heavy

Nick Borst-Smith
I am touch with Stuart and have/am joining the DevonSevens. I am quite a way from the border- near Crediton but have studied your excellent website from top to bottom.


Hi Nick

My wife, Ellen, processed your membership on 22nd and passed the paperwork to the relevant person, so you are now a proud(?) member of Devon Austin Seven Club!

Cornwall clubs site is fab for technical info, and if no one on here knows the answer to a query, then chances are, there is no answer!

On your original query. With the radiator removed I have taken complete engine and gearbox assemblies out using a plank to slide them up over the chassis nose piece. Its a little swings and roundabouts, as said above, mating the engine to the gearbox is far easier out of the car, due to the blind spline. However getting the assembly back into place involves much heaving, twisting and in my case cursing!

Stuart.

Location: Teignmouth

Re: How heavy

Ruairidh,

It is project I have had for a very, very long time! As they said on David Frost's TV programme "Through the Keyhole": "the clues are there"!

Merry Christmas to everyone, Bryan.

Re: How heavy

Your secret is safe with me Bryan!

Re: How heavy

There are two schools of thought here about removing the gearbox with the engine or leaving it in situ. This actually relates to problems with refitting.
In my view this depends on which gearbox is fitted. In my experience it is extremely difficult to refit the engine with gearbox if it is a 3-speed box. This is because the clutch pedal is fixed and I've always struggled to get it to pass through the hole in the floorboards.
The other thing mentioned is the 'missing spline' which means there is only one position in which the clutch spline will go into the gearbox. This is indeed tricky and much easier on the bench than in the car.
The missing spline is a bit of a mystery. No-one seems to be able to explain why it was adopted. I think it came in 1930 when coupled brakes were introduced, but that's just a hunch.
The 3-speed has an added complication in that the 3 clutch withdrawal levers also have to be aligned properly - not the case with the 4-speed.
For a 3-speed without the missing spline I would leave the gearbox behind.
For 3 speed with missing spline I'd probably still leave the gearbox in situ and swear at the spline when struggling to get it back!
For 4-speed a it's probably easiest to remove it with the engine and deal with the extra weight.
It has been known for the hole in the floor for the 3-speed clutch pedal to be enlarged to let the fixed lever through. It depends how much you value originality.

Location: Melrose, Scottish Borders

Re: How heavy

Jim Holyoake
There are two schools of thought here about removing the gearbox with the engine or leaving it in situ. This actually relates to problems with refitting.
In my view this depends on which gearbox is fitted. In my experience it is extremely difficult to refit the engine with gearbox if it is a 3-speed box. This is because the clutch pedal is fixed and I've always struggled to get it to pass through the hole in the floorboards.
The other thing mentioned is the 'missing spline' which means there is only one position in which the clutch spline will go into the gearbox. This is indeed tricky and much easier on the bench than in the car.
The missing spline is a bit of a mystery. No-one seems to be able to explain why it was adopted. I think it came in 1930 when coupled brakes were introduced, but that's just a hunch.
The 3-speed has an added complication in that the 3 clutch withdrawal levers also have to be aligned properly - not the case with the 4-speed.
For a 3-speed without the missing spline I would leave the gearbox behind.
For 3 speed with missing spline I'd probably still leave the gearbox in situ and swear at the spline when struggling to get it back!
For 4-speed a it's probably easiest to remove it with the engine and deal with the extra weight.
It has been known for the hole in the floor for the 3-speed clutch pedal to be enlarged to let the fixed lever through. It depends how much you value originality.


The missing spline, known as a blind spline is far from unique to Austin Sevens. The purpose is to stop the sliding aspect of the spline locking up under load. If anyone has "Fundamentals Of Motor Vehicle Engineering" the standard text book for apprentice learning up until the late 90's, it is mentioned in there, i think, from memory.

Stuart.

Location: Teignmouth

Re: How heavy

At last.
The riddle of the Sphinx revealed on Christmas Eve.

Location: Wessex

Re: How heavy

No lifting is neccassary to fit or remove an austin 7 engine. It can all be done by sliding.

I have a nice wooden bench the same height as the nose casting.

I stand legs akimbo the bench facing the windscreen. Bench agains the nose casting.

You lift the drivers side of the engine to tilt and at the same time sliding the feet of the crankcase along the passenger side chassis rail. The sump on the drivers side will be sliding along the driver side chassis rail.

Next job is to lift the sump at the front onto the nose casting and youve won. You just pull and slide forward and its on the bench. You can then take the beer gox off. Lifting and Carrying the engine by itself is easy. With the box on it is possible but probably doesn't do your nuts the world of good.

And I have a 3 legged crane that can pick the whole car up.

Re: How heavy


If anyone has "Fundamentals Of Motor Vehicle Engineering" the standard text book for apprentice learning up until the late 90's, it is mentioned in there, i think, from memory.

Stuart.


Ah, Hillier & Pittuck - I remember it well! (just)

Re: How heavy

Eastenders is boring so I've just read the aforementioned book (4th edition). Cant find the blind spline anywere but blind splines are used a lot on our lawnmower pto outputs at work and they don't slide as the shaft itself is split.
Steve.

Location: South East Cornwall

Re: How heavy

Reckless,
I may be getting old but I have still got a fine head of hair.! I think I will have to purchase a small hoist to lift the engine onto the bench before I do permanent damage to something. This talk of trusses is getting a little worrying. photo IMG_0645.jpg
Cheers,
Dave.

Location: Sheffield

Re: How heavy

Dave,

I was given a little electric hoist from Lidl last month that cost £49.99:



I have yet to use it and have been thinking about how best to mount it. Another forum suggests two of these bolted to a wall with scaffold pole between them...



Any comments from those who might have tried similar?

Re: How heavy

R,
Just the thing I was thinking of, or even a hand powered one.
Cheers,
Dave.

Location: Sheffield

Re: How heavy

I'm a little surprised that no one has mentioned the Ruby with regards to engine removal where the sliding method cannot be performed due to the front engine mounts being attached to the chassis and preventing any sliding.

Location: Near M1 Jtn 28