Bonjour all

I know this subject was partially covered in an earlier thread, but I have a couple of queries.

I have just finished rebuilding my 1930 3 speed crash box and it is time to refit the clutch pedal shaft and levers for the thrust bearing. I have the original shaft for the cotter pin type of clutch lever and the matching levers, but have lost/thrown away/used for something else, the correct taper pins. I also have a shaft from a later box, possibly a 4 speed together with the arms for the clamp style of clutch lever, but the hole centres for the taper pins are on different centres than the earlier shaft.

My questions are these:-

a) Is it possible to use a modern roll pin rather than taper pins to attach the levers to the shaft? Has anybody done this?

b) Does anybody foresee a problem with using the later shaft for the clamp style clutch lever, redrilled to the correct centres, preferably for roll pins?

It seems silly to have to buy/borrow a taper reamer and obtain taper pins when a modern roll pin would do the same job.

Tony Saward

Location: Northern South West France

Not sure about roll pins. I'd think they wouldn't be strong enough, but if anyone can say different......
Using the later pinch bolt type of shaft is no problem at all. You might have to fettle it a bit to get the return spring working, but the big advantage is pedal height becomes adjustable. I've got one on both of my 3speed cars.

I would advise that you use the correct taper pins. I am sure that roll pins are not suitable.

Location: Centre of the Universe

Strongly suggest you go for cleaning up the existing taper holes and fit new pins. If you Google Tracy Tools you will perhaps be surprised how little trouble (cost) it will be to get the reamer and pins. See other comments on the Forum in Sept 2013.
A tip is to mount the shaft in an engineer's vise with the lever arm snug against the shoulder of the vise jaws. When reaming there is a tendency for the reamer to drag the arm sidewaysb. This will hold it in line.
It is also worth saying again that my experience is that you cannot mix and match lever arms and shaft. It appears that these items were initially assembled individually rather than being standardised with a jig. Always try to keep the three items together.
Ron

Ron - Can you remember the exact thread subject in Sept 2013? I'd like to read that (or an acknowledged good summary for clutch adjustment) but can't identify which one in that period, having looked...

Apparently my new car selects all gears but the pedal has to be pushed right to the floor.

Location: W.Sussex

Hi Alan

When you fitted the clamp type clutch pedal did you fit a clamp type shaft or did you keep the cotter type shaft.

I also could not find the September 2013 thread on the subject.

Has anybody got a couple of spare taper pins lying about in their workshop?

Tony Saward

Location: Northern South West France

Jon the article which started on 19 September 2013 didn't offer any suggestions re clutch adjustment, it was simply about taper pins. Putting "Taper Pins" into the search box at the top of this forum page will bring up the thread started by Dereck Sheldon.
Yesterday I had an email from Terry Griffin - well known to participants in the Bert Hadley Trophy - to let me know that replacing the taper pins with 6mm roll pins was a well proved alternative. Hearing it from Terry I would now happily agree with this method and need to put the record straight as part of this thread. When drilling out to 6mm carefully keep shaft and lever in line.
Terry has already made direct contact with Tony, complete with picture!
Ron