One day I might need to take off the head....

The nuts look as though they have never moved for decades & present serious risk of snapping the studs.

Plusgas/heat may be a possibility, but do I wonder if the safest course might be to use a nut splitter on all of them (in sequence of course!)

I'd be grateful of any comments on this course of action. Thanks.

regards,
Chris

1937 Ruby

Location: Morecambe

Can be soaked in thin oil. Can be struck between a hammer or broad punch and a heavy piece of steel as anvil, from several directions (on the flats). Or two hammers simutaneously. Can be oscillated and the stud watched for signs of movement before going too far. Retighten as you go to keep pressure off the remainder.

The greater worry will be the manifold studs if steel nuts been used!

The real problems begin when removal of studs is attempted. Austin followed the diabolical practice of threading into water. If you find a succesful method, let me know!

Bob Culver

Location: Auckland

Shock applied vertically to nuts and studs is very effective in loosening them.
I would try to hit the nuts vertically downwards. If there is thread protruding above the nut screw a spare nut onto it to protect the stud and hit it hard with a hammer.
To extract the studs I use a similar method. Use two nuts locked onto the stud to protect the thread then strike with a hammer (like knocking in a nail). The shocks on the thread very often will loosen the stud.
Recently I bought a proper stud remover on ebay. It works very well and seems much more gentle on the stud than mole wrenches etc.
I suspect the real difficulty may be getting the head off the studs once the nuts have been removed.
Splitting nuts seems easiest by drilling down through them from above. The hole can usually be opened with a centre punch and the nut just comes off. Never got on very well with nut splitters.

Location: Melrose, Scottish Borders

Soaking in Diesel for a couple of weeks may help too. Its amazing where the stuff can get given a little time. Just put a couple of drops on the top of each stud every day and wipe up that which runs off..

Location: Teignmouth

many thanks for all the good ideas!

When the time comes, I shall try to incorporate as many of them as possible.

Surely it would be best if the studs themselves are left in the block, if all is ok with them?

The "alternative" to the nut splitter sounds good...at least there is no problem with access to the nuts.

I have previously removed the manifold. It has brass nuts. One of the studs virtually fell out as the thread had rusted away in the water jacket. I had to replace with a stepped stud.

I have read the various suggestions for freeing the head once the nuts are off...tapping with a copper hammer, putting the plugs in & spinning the engine over. Any more?

regards,

Chris

Location: Morecambe

A bit of heat and a squirt of penetrant.

As Austin in the shed says then working the nut backwards and forwards gently ,do not worry if any studs snap,I have removed loads using a left handed extractor ,all the best . Terry

Ambersil Rust Flash - 500ml aerosol, usually around £6.50 a can.

I've found this product very good, it first of all freezes the seized components causing fissures in the rust layer holding them together, allowing the penetrating solution within the product to do its job more effectively.

It made light work of removing a set of valves that were seized solid into a block that hadn't been touched since the early 1960's.



Jeff.

Location: Almost but not quite, the far North East of England

Very many thanks to everyone for your advice...lots for me to go at.

Jeff, the Ambersil sounds good. I get some in stock.

best wishes

Chris

Location: Morecambe

I am sorry to go against Terence's suggestion of a left hand thread stud extractor, but I hate them. I have had the experience of one snapping of when trying to get a stud out and when that happens, you really are in sh*t creek. As you have to centre drill the offending stud first of all anyway, you may as well just continue to drill it out. Just make sure you get the drill centered before you start. And don't be scared of using a helicoil if you end up going slightly oversize, they are a wonderful invention...

Location: Cambridge

Also have to agree with Hugh - if anything was more optimistically and inaptly named than the dreaded "Easy-out" I have yet to come across it!

Plenty of diesel/heating oil round the stud, then a concerted attack with a good Stillson is my answer. Why worry about damaging the studs? Throw them away and fit new ones - they're cheap enough

Rick

Location: Deepest Norfolk

I am with Hugh & Rick. Any broken studs drill them out. You can use the cylinder head as a guide to centre broken studs by putting it back on the unbroken studs and then with the correct size drill put it down the empty hole and just drill enough to make the centre visible. Remove the head then fully drill out the stud. I use a small drill as a pilot first then finish off with the correct size drill ( the one used to find the centre). Follow it up with the oversize tap and insert. Job done.

John Mason.

Location: Nottinghamshire

Easy Outs seem primarily intended for broken bolts where, once broken due fatigue or over tension, the tension goes and a modest turning effort will retract the thread.
Various thread sealants will keep water out and a prudent precaution where thread into water.

Bob Culver

Location: Auckland

A little diesel and tap on top is a good start...... but time is best go easy

Then a little heat.

I've give up on manifold studs coming off this way. There is just too much damage resulting from putting the car on its side

Location: Poland

I must look into Helicoil, not used them before.

Seems that a prepared "run up" to the job is advised, with several replacement parts to hand.

I would prefer to leave this type of job until autumn if possible. Enjoy the car during it's first summer with me.
I have, so far,
overhauled the dynamo & got the charging right.
Reduced the oil leakage from engine.
Refurbed the carb.
Done lots of routine maintenance.
General tidying up, replace a few bits of trim.
Enjoyed driving.

Are there any other members in the North Lancs/ South Cumbria areas? Could maybe arrange a get together sometime. Would be good to rub shoulders with more experienced owners.

regards & thanks to all,

Chris

Location: Morecambe

The West Lancs A7 Group meet at: Briars Hall Hotel, Briars Lane, Burscough, L40 5TH. on A5209.

Brian Hughes is the Sec. and can be contacted on: wlpwa7g@yahoo.co.uk

Thanks Ruairidh,

I am aware of the West Lancs club, but it is around 50 miles from me.

perhaps a group more centred around North Lancs and South Cumbria could be formed. I would be interested in helping to start one if there was interest.
...maybe start a new thread

Location: Morecambe

I use a counter sink center drill to start there is less chance of breaking the drill

Smaller working to larger tip. Much easier to control that normal drills Easy to get in "full carbide"

If you use Helicoils in holes open at the bottom be sure to use some sealant to prevent leakage

Location: Poland