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Re: Replacing springs

When I had to change a broken spring, all of the "easy" methods of spring removal were to no avail so we had to be brutal! With weight off the spring, all fastenings out and the front number plate removed, an eight foot length of solid 1" bar was threaded though on to the front end of the spring.
Enough length of bar protruded at the front to allow mighty swings with a sledge hammer! At lease half a dozen swipes were needed to take it out. The pin holding the leaves together was sheared off inside several of the leaves in the process, so you can imagine how hard it had been hit!
Ron

Re: Replacing springs

A good method for loosening the springs in the chassis channels allowing easy removal, is the loosen the u bolts and spring bolt on both springs. then go for a short drive. Come back and the springs should slip out.

Re: Replacing springs

This thread may be of interest Andy: http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=2099944454&frmid=5&msgid=889842&cmd=show

I can report that the large heat-shrink method I used is proving to be more that durable.

Re: Replacing springs

Thanks again. I also found an earlier thread regarding gaiters that has helped.
Cheers
Andy

Location: Norf Essex

Re: Replacing springs

In the interests of rounding off the story, today I bit the bullet and went for the rear springs.
I followed the lubricate and loosen advice before driving around the roads.
It worked perfectly.
The springs virtually fell out. It was somewhat more difficult to get the new ones back in, specifically aligning the new pins through the hubs and spring ends. I added chamfers to the ends of the pins and that helped guide them through.
I also wrapped the springs in Denso tape and 'filled'the chassis rails with underseal as suggested.
The result is that Mildred now rides 2 inches higher than she did at 9 o'clock this morning. I still have to do the front but that at least looks more straightforward.
So thanks again for all the advice, it was extremely useful.
Andy B

Location: Norf Essex

Re: Replacing springs

I am fitting new Ian Dunford rear springs. These are fractionally thicker than those I removed and I am having trouble fitting the packing piece on top. My question is, as the through bolt and U bolt pull down, is the packing needed at all as there is no connection between the top of the top hat section and the through bolt and U bolt.

Re: Replacing springs

Iv'e never ever used a packing piece

Re: Replacing springs

There is definitely a 'top bar' to the entrance to the chassis slot where the spring feeds through and I took it that the packing piece was there to provide a tight fit here, before the bolt then clamped the spring down. Given the length of the spring I assume this top bar 'push fit' prevents all the leverage from sudden jolts etc being placed only on the bolt.
It was difficult to fit the packing. I planed down the packing just far enough so that I could put the packing in first and then needed to use a club hammer to gently get the spring home.
I am far from knowledgeable here but to my engineering mind it did all make sense to avoid placing all the strain on the bolt.
Andy B

Location: Norf Essex

Re: Replacing springs

Thanks for the replies. I have driven one spring home with 'gentle' hammering a block of wood but the 'top bar' that you mention was missing when I bought the car. I had it welded but the clearance is less than the other side. I will have to find a suitable spacer to fit.
Interesting to see someone has never used spacers. I think the through bolt takes fore and aft loads whilst the U bolts take vertical loads.

Re: Replacing springs

The red fibre packing is intended to go under the rear spring (and above the front spring) and is to prevent fretting between the spring and the chassis. When I fitted new springs many years ago I covered them in grease and wrapped them in Denso tape thinking that will keep the elements out. Some years later at the MOT station I wondered what was the lump in the Denso tape, said nothing got the MOT and went home. I removed the Denso tape to find a broken leaf amid a mass of rust, I promptly removed the Denso tape from the the other 2 springs to find a similar mass of rust and no grease. Since when I leave my springs naked and coat them in old back axle oil.

Re: Replacing springs

"Interesting to see someone has never used spacers. I think the through bolt takes fore and aft loads whilst the U bolts take vertical loads."

That sounds right. I don't think the chassis section would be strong enough to hold the spring without a tight "U' bolt. The early chassis with extensions over the spring apparently cracked as the spring flexed.

I have not seen the spring packings, front or rear, on the few pre 1930 cars I have worked on - the saloon may have them - not checked.

"The red fibre packing is intended to go under the rear spring (and above the front spring) and is to prevent fretting between the spring and the chassis"

The red fibre rear spring packers are not listed in the Spare Parts before 1928. The front spring always had a packer (possibly originally wood).
The rear spring packers would have to go under the spring, if on top the through bolt and 'U' bolt could not be properly tightened and would most likely cut through the packer.

Tony.

Location: Malvern, Melbourne, Australia.

Re: Replacing springs

I have always run with my springs naked as I don't like the idea of the leaves not being visible for occasional inspection. I am an advocate of lobbering the springs with old grease or oil and massaging it into the gaps between the leaves.
I have made packing pieces in the past out of Foamex plastic or oak. When using the wooden packers I covered them liberally with grease as this makes them easier to insert and protects them from decay.
After fitting new springs, it is prudent to check the tightness of the u-bolts and main through bolt as things settle down after a few miles of road use.