Bryan, I don`t think that you should be putting spoke wheels on a rolling drum !!

Can be difficult if you have a fixed length front cable and it too long. Inspectors here have been brainwashed with trade folklore to regard even the most rugged versions of clamp type adjusters as somehow lethal, so not permitted.
The originalterminations can be altered. If you think the device is unreliable, I have seen the same on suspension bridge cables!

The radius rod anchor, shackles etc must be free of movement. With the aid of an assistant can be checked rocking against firm chocks. Long levers on the front and short on the rear complicate matters. For Ruby 1 usual to adjust the front with lead, which does confuse rollers but OK on the pad type machines, if these still used. (I gave up on testing stations years ago; on a 1960s car they always tried to fail handbrake distribution, and used to get miffed and perplexed when I skidded both wheels equally on the forecourt. It may be a coincidence but a conduit in compression involved!).
When you allow for front lead etc usually end up with a long and spongy pedal travel by modern standards; may have to temporarily adj this out for a wof.

The Ruby 1 cross shaft is an intellectual puzzle. The basis for the concentric tubes with no apparent relative movement seems unfathomable no matter how long you lie on your back and contemplate. The idea was to transmit torque from the centre more or less equally to the ends.

Bob Culver

Location: Auckland, NZ

Does it have a Bowdenex conversion?

Location: Melrose, Scottish Borders

Still standard setup
Thanks

I take it that you've eliminated worn-out linings, cams and bushes and any other life-expired parts in the braking system. There shouldn't be any free movement anywhere.

I assume, too, that you've checked that the drums and linings are clean and dry and not full of grease from the wheel bearings.

The brake cable shouldn't have any slack in it. I start by pulling as much spare cable as possible through the fork on the end of the cable. Having done that, I jack up the front end, apply the handbrake by ONE CLICK on the ratchet and then tighten the cable adjuster until the shoes just begin to scuff in the drums (release the handbrake and they should be completely free).

I set the rear brake in the same way, but with TWO clicks of the handbrake.

On my Sevens I do this every few hundred miles and on a good day can lock up all four wheels on a dry road.

The PD two-seater, which in practice stops very well, always gets an MOT advisory that "braking performance barely meets legal requirements", but this is due to its very light weight. The RP has no such problem and a Ruby certainly shouldn't.

Location: Herefordshire, with an E not a T

Thanks Martin,
will try setting them that way tomorrow. Suspect it's the balance between the front and rear as the back ones are working really well.
Bryan

Location: Herefordshire, with an E not a T

Yes, when I apply a bit of pressure to the cable by hand the wheel stops well.

Bryan

Blimey Martin, what sort of magical linings do you use. I take it the system is original. The old RP and Ruby 1 road tests could not lock in the wet! I never locked my RP in dry as original, and it was not for want of trying!

With (uncompensated) girlings the rear would lock in the wet; the world went suddenly quiet but nothing else changed much, including the speed.

Do you have a front cable with adjustable length? Are you using the clamp type auxillary cable adjusters? It is a pain to alter the rear cables otherwise.

Bob Culver

Location: Auckland, NZ

Bob, our 7s are completely standard brake set-up with screw clamp adjusters on the cables. As it happens, I have literally just returned from a trip into town in our '34 PD. Whilst travelling through a village on my way in, a postman who was clearly not using his mirrors pulled directly in front of me from the side of the road. I am not exaggerating when I say there were only a couple of feet between the PDs wings and the post van. Now, I was travelling at around 30MPH at the time and absolutely forced my foot on to the brake pedal. There was extremely loud tyre squeal, the wheels locked and left a rather impressive set of skid marks on the road. Much to my relief the car pulled up quickly and straight, with NO impact between the two vehicles! Unfortunately I did not think to photograph the skid marks as I was somewhat ruffled. However, I can assure you that it is most certainly possible to make the brakes lock and stay locked.



As a side note, it may amuse some of you to know that the post man (after admitting I hadn't just appeared from the aether and he hadn't been paying due care and attention) then accused me of "putting my foot down". I'm sure the majority of you will be able to picture the expression of baffled amusement on my face at this stage. He clearly got the message and realised how ridiculous this claim was when considering the car in question...It's not often one is accused of driving too fast in an Austin 7!

Location: Herefordshire

In contrast to Dave's experience of this morning, I was reminded last weekend of just how bad the brakes on other peoples' Sevens can be.

My brother's RK is maintained by a professional mechanic, but when I took it out for a run I was horrified to find that the spongy pedal could be pressed to the floor with almost no noticeable retarding effect. This, the mechanic had assured my brother, was as good as A7 brakes get.

Austin Seven brakes are not great, but with reasonable standards of maintenance and regular adjustment, they're quite good enough to get you out of trouble when necessary.

Bob - Having always driven Sevens, I've developed a driving style in which I hardly ever use the brakes. No magical linings; I think they just like to show off on the rare occasions that they're called upon to do anything!

Location: Herefordshire, with an E not a T

Thanks Martin,
The brakes appear a lot better balanced, hopefully the compliance tester is happy with them on Monday and the car will be re-registered for the road again.
Also thanks to Bruce for the email as well .

Regards
Bryan

Thanks Dave and Martin

I suspect there will be many others surprised also. Your cars have the advantage of use and therefore bedded linings.

Most of the mid 1930s road tests commented very adversely on the brakes or discreetly avoided mention.
My father tried various linings but abandoned some as caused grabbing in reverse. I tried every combination of lead etc but original RP never good. My car did stop reasonably with girlings; with no body dip and 2 cwt on the pedal not obvious to the driver but passengers would brace their hands against the dashboard. A stop with all wheels on the brink of skidding on a dry road is equal or better than a skid.

Bemused by the word aether. This really belonged to my father's generation. I sometimes use for a laugh but most have never heard of! Radio waves used to need it. I have encountered cop cars emerging from it. Unfortunately they were using it for their radar.

Bob Culver

Location: Auckland, NZ

Great thanks for the help

Rubina passed the tests and is finally legal for the road again.
Now I just need to get rid of some of the noises that shouldn't be there and get the motor pulling better

Location: Herefordshire, with an E not a T

Location: Herefordshire, with an E not a T