Does anyone have a good solution for accesses/undoing /doing up that blooming nut at the rear of the Dynamo drive casting on a mag engine? It's a right pain in the behind to access and whilst it's apart a better engineered solution is easier to apply.

Suggestions please. Pictures of solutions even better.

Thanks

Charles

I cut a slot head in the top of the stud (hopefully you can just see this on the photo?) so I can use a screwdriver to tighten it down or start to loosen it.



I also have a cut down (to about 1" in length) open jaw spanner which has also been ground on it's width - cannot locate this for photo however!

I have used a sharp thin chisel to get the nut started when undoing and replaced with new afterwards.

Something like this may also work but I have never gotten around to making one.

Thanks R

I have two thoughts running:
Take a box spanner or 3/8 socket and weld a strip to the outside to enable it to slide down between the block and Dynamo casting.
This would allow me to use a nut.

The zero option is to replace the stud with an Allen headed bolt. The downside here is that you are unscrewing the thread from the casting, which I don't like doing unless unavoidable.

Charles

Charles,
Could you cut the socket head off a suitable size capscrew and braze it onto a deeper nut (or home made tapped bar). You may have to make up a longer Allen key by brazing a capscrew onto the main shank of the Allen key. I haven't had a mag engine car so may be talking rubbish.
Dave.

Location: Sheffield

What about silver soldering a bi hex head on?

I like the silver soldering a socket head onto a slightly deeper nut.
Will go and check the wiggle room

Thanks

Charles

If almost, but not quite enough, wiggle room, long series, ball end Allen keys might solve the problem Charles.

Steve

Location: North Yorkshire

I have a really nice short Britool ring spanner, the ends are particularly slim and elegant, it fits perfectly and makes the job comparatively easy. I have other ring spanners that will not go near the nut due to the proximity of the housing, I imagine though with a little judicious use of a grinder one could be modified to work.

Location: NZ

Hi Charles
I also use a 12 point ring spanner without any trouble (silverline make).
I always remove the exhaust downpipe first as the spanner is too long.

Adrian.

Location: New forest

Ruairidh Dunford

I cut a slot head in the top of the stud (hopefully you can just see this on the photo?) so I can use a screwdriver to tighten it down or start to loosen it.



I also have a cut down (to about 1" in length) open jaw spanner which has also been ground on it's width - cannot locate this for photo however!

I have used a sharp thin chisel to get the nut started when undoing and replaced with new afterwards.

Something like this may also work but I have never gotten around to making one.

Location: Oxfordshire

The solution



Charles

This little spanner works a treat:

I have just done this very job on my 1928 Fabric saloon and used the special (Austin?) short closed hex spanner in the Austin tool kit! I did have to turn it over each time I moved it a twelfth of a turn - worked a treat even with the exhaust pipe in place!

Bryan.

Location: Staffs

Yes please David - I would like to try one of those, do you require and email order as well?