Location: Shropshire

Location: Shropshire

Robin, the remnants of original paint that I have found generally appeared to be a Matt or Satin finish, this includes under bonnet, bulkhead and chassis, I also have only seen a very thin coat inside body panels. In my opinion it is details such as this that make the difference in presenting a vintage car correctly, however I admit to being somewhat anal with a tendency to count rivets. Each to their own, I am quite sure some owners would have polished everything in sight even when the cars were new.

Location: NZ

I use matt black inside the tub, under the body, wings, bonnet and on the bulkhead - I like the finish.

Great work R - looks ace!!

Thank you Damian - the ride and handling of the car is transformed, holds the road very well, delighted :)

Road???

Looking back at the final details of the job - excellent rebuild of the quite lovely Chummy.
Well done that man!

Tony.

Location: Malvern, Melbourne, Australia.

Ditto to Tony's last remarks - a great job. Just thinking, it's a car I haven't borrowed yet, so don't let the Europe trip cause any mishaps to it!! (Subtle hint). Cheers, Bill - unfortunately too far south of Haggisland.

Robin, having painted dozens cars myself, and made a many mistakes! I have to say there is a lot that only experience teaches you. There are tricks to using any tool and a DA sander is simply a labour saving device that is only as good as its operator, personally I don't like using a DA to work body filler, hand flatting, body files and blocking are the old way of doing the job, more laborious but just as good and sometimes better results are achieved. I agree that it is very satisfying to do the job yourself and it is quite possible for a home paint job to rival those done by the professional. I would suggest seeking out and taking advice from someone who has a proven track record of obtaining good results. It would be worth getting hold of some old panels to experiment on, they will teach you a lot, once you are happy with results you can move on to your car. Paint wings, doors, bonnet etc separately, it is easier to control that way, if one goes wrong you can stop and correct with out having to redo the entire car. Also be aware that a great looking gun finish can look poor once fully dry if your preparation is not up to scratch. Perhaps Ivor may comment and provide some professional thoughts and advice.

Location: NZ

Robin,

very happy to speak to you on 01419428037 to explain what I did - Ian and Ivor will be far better placed to give you grounded and experienced advice on this however.

We have now travelled a reasonable distance in the refurbished car and I can report that it is entirely rattle free, holds the road very firmly and is an utter delight to drive, I am very happy that I made the effort to complete the work.

One of the upgrades I chose to fit on reassembly were LED headlights - we had the chance to test them over the weekend and the results are posted below for your interest:

This first shot is on an unlit road starting with headlights off...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-TCxjR4ffI&feature=youtu.be

Second shot is on a private single track lane (with potholes!!)...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkq8QcPd1wk

Hello Ruairidh
Would your car have originally been fitted with side/head front lights. I have not seen side/head LED bulbs for sale yet. Have you used the double dipper bulbs?
Many thanks.
Adrian.

Location: New Forest

Hi Adrian,

yes it would have and yes I have...

Hi Ruairidh
How do you find them. Do they give high and low beam in the chummy light units?
Many thanks.
Adrian.

Location: New Forest

Adrian,

give me a call on 01419428037

Regards,

Ruairidh

Hi Adrian,
My export modal AE has double filament headlamps. When I got it it was using standard filament bulbs and not the graves type and there was no visible difference between high and low. After fitting the LED bulbs you can definitely see the difference and also a lot better. The only trade off is that you no longer have the soft yellow light.

Regards
Bryan

Location: Nz

Many thanks for your comments.
Forgot to say, fantastic job on the chummy, Ruairidh.
Adrian.

Location: Always out in the New Forest

Why thank you Adrian - our conversation was most illuminating

Ruairidh,
I have LED headlights, but don't have a main beam. I would like to fit dipping LEDs which should be possible because the bulb holders have two contacts.
However with the dipping bulbs orientation must be important. How did you ensure the bulbs were correctly aligned in the reflectors?

Location: Melrose, Roxburghshire

You cannot do it properly Jim, I aligned the beam given by angling the lights towards the kerb (which has always been my preference).

What bulbs have you fitted?

My car is 1929 so does not have side, dip AND main beam, only side and head. These are fitted with single 'filament' LED headlight bulbs which work very well indeed.
I now have to have them set low enough not to dazzle - a novel experience with an A7! The problem is that on the open road I now want them set to see further ahead as they are easily capable of that. ie I need a main beam.
The 'Double Dipper' LEDs need to be fitted "with the LED nearest the front of the bulb uppermost". That means the holder has to be in the correct orientation in the reflector.
The question is - Can the holder be rotated in the reflector to bring that LED to the top?

Location: Melrose, Roxburghshire

Jim,

it may be possible to rotate the LED (block) portion of the bulb to orientate it in your holder otherwise you will have to desolder the holder and rotate it to suit.

I have noticed little difference in the dip and main beam (36w/40w), my understanding is that most LED lights like this will work on a range of 5-18v and these are most likely to have been originally developed for 12v function - they work well on 6v but the output is compromised very slightly. They are a remarkable improvement on the original that is for certain.