Ive got a 37 ruby, has anyone come across a 7 with no adjustment nut on the steering box? Where the nut should be there isn't one, no blanking plug its just a complete casting, how do you adjust the steering as mine has gone tight at the straight ahead position after oiling/greasing it, (it's perhaps just a coincidence) it's fine left and right once past straight, could the column need adjusting? Thanks for any advice

Does it look like this Scott?

Hi Ruaridh , very similar , I've borrowed one from a mate to see how they come to bits and its identical (his is a 38 ruby) to the one on the car minus the adjusting bolt ?

Does yours look like this?

Sorry,it doesn't look like that Ruaridh ,definately the first, tried to send photo but wasn't sure how to

Email me the photo Scott - the top (late type) steering box does not have adjustment like the earlier box.

If anyone knows how to adjust them I too would be very interested to know how to do it.

Sent it Ruaridh, hope you got it

Not yet - dunford1@aol.com

I can conform that Scott has the later "hourglass" type steering box.

Many thanks to those of you who have offered advice off-forum on how to adjust these, very grateful.

The problem I have had is that I understand the principle of how they are adjusted but I have had zilch luck in adjusting them using the methods described in the books. Anyone actually done one recently and had success?

I dont have Woodrow but from diagram in the Wlliams Special book the screw at back seems to move the shaft assemblyinto mesh. In the photo it appears like a brass grease nipple!

Has along screw fouling the worm ben used in the normal filler hole?

Location: Auckland, NZ

It just has a standard Grease nipple that I've used for 3 years Bob
Ruriadh what suggestions have you had off forum?
Thanks both of you

You sir, have email!

Ah, thank-you Ruairidh

Late 1938 on, Austin introduced a few Ruby parts interchangeable with Big 7 bits. But don't ask me how to fix the problem! Cheers, Bill

Location: Euroa, Australia

After taking the car down the lane a couple of times I've noticed the 1 and a half inch of play in the steering has gone, it's very accurate but very stiff before and after straight ahead?

After taking the steering box out getting all the old grease out refilling with oil the steering is perfect turning right and straightening up but left is still stiff? Once the box was out of the car in the daylight it appears the adjusting screw has been snapped off at some point. Any suggestions please re stiff and left steering

Could someone please post how the adjustments are made to the later type of steering box? I have got a lot of free play in the steering of the Opal (about 15 degrees of steering wheel movement without anything happening at the wheels)

Location: North Herts

Nick,
It's the same as the earlier one but without the luxioury of an adjusting screw. I would set the worm and stearing arm clearances first and then put the three bolt flange into the body levering it away from the worm. Nip the three bolts quite snug and then lever with a screwdriver between the bottom bolt head and the centre boss. Twiddle the steering arm back and forth by hand and feel the clearance tighten as you lever. When it's getting smallish try it with a steering wheel to get the tight spot as just an increased sensation of tightness. If you over do it, lever the boss back out and try again. Once you think you're there fully nip the three bolts.
Dave

My input is do not tighten the steering too much. Back in 1978 i tightened up the steering and had a hell of a time controlling the car. An older guy in Sussex told me loosen the steering and it worked great. Be careful

Pat in California

Location: California CA

Thanks for the reply Dave.

I was hoping for a step by step guide, not only for me but for others in future.

How do you set the worm and steering arm clearances?

Location: North Herts

I'm with you Nick. A guide from the sage's with pictures would be very nice.

Location: Oakley hants

Sorry no time to give full step by step and pictures but here few tips.
My one, though fully adjusted used to sometimes lock solid when going round a corner/roundabout......very embarrassing at speed!. I had the worm and sector teeth built up and machined by a proper engineering firm and much adjustment but still to no avail!! Was introduced to MolySlip, put it in box and magic transformation to one finger light steering.

The late box has a thrust ball race at the bottom of the column instead of just brass/bronze thrust washer....is ball race ok or badly worn? Last time I wanted one (20 to 30 years ago!) the ball-race was obsolete and unobtainable but I guess they may now be available? Seem to remember end float of column controlled by shims somewhere?
The mesh of the rack with the worm is also controlled by the thrust button which you will see looks like a rounded rivet head on the nearside of the box. Open box and punch out this button and you will see it has shims under its head. Wear on end of button and/or thrust face of end of drop arm that bears on button will allow rack teeth to get too close to worm
- Remove shims to push drop arm further away to decrease mesh and give rack-teeth/worm clearance.....in conjunction with up and down movement of side plate (with 3 bolts) by levering or tapping with a hammer and drift -more accurate and controllable than levering.
I still want a bearing if anyone knows of a supplier. I can't remember if there is also a ball thrust above the worm?

Location: NW Devon

Nick, Derek, et al,
Dennis has given a good summary above. The worm end float is set by shims behind the two bolt flange seen in the picture at the top of the thread. I've never changed the thrust races, they always seem OK if not messed about with. If you're stuck you could probably change the balls in them. Set the end clearance to the clearance side of no up and down movement when dry. The wheel spindle end play is set by the button in the housing. Remember to take into account any gasket you intend fitting (buy two and use one for the adjustment stage only) and that you probably tighten it a bit more 'for real' than when you're adjusting. Again slightly on the positive side of zero clearance when dry. You can stone the end of the spindle and button if that helps the selection of shims you've got available or try a different thickness paper gasket. Put the two sub assemblies together applying your chosen lubricant and engage the mesh.

If the worm and wheel have lived together for a while they should mesh up easily. I've never tried lapping as Austin suggested. I can imagine however that an old well used pair could be more worn at the straight ahead position than slightly to each side such that the tightest spots may be either side. Just set up to these spots. As suggested above the picture in Bill Williams book (an Austin picture I think) shows an adjusting screw and lock nut where the grease nipple is in the picture above - an easier way to adjust.

I've more experience of the earlier boxes and I've invariably managed to get them to about 1/16" free play at the end of the steering arm without a noticable tight spot at the steering wheel. See how close you can get it!!??

Dave