Hi,
I've just purchased an early RP (18 Oct 1932) with 4-speed and rear tank. I'm a novice. Struggling to find the right oils, as my local Halfords only stocks the Classic 20w/50 'low' detergent oil, and i'm told it should be 'non-detergent'. Also the gearbox oil is something i'm not clear about. Can anyone advise, please? Other questions are about seatbelts as i'm interested in fitting a discreet child's belt (airplane-type) at the back, if there are any suggestions for this. Also, about the radiator water - reading the forum is seems some people recommend only rainwater, others use tap water but boiled. I have a house water-softener, and wondered whether water from that would be suitable or not?
Finally, I have no tools, so need a suitable grease gun and adapters, and any correct spanners etc and other tools that might be helpful in keeping the car on the road.
Any advice would be most gratefully received. Thanks in advance.

Location: Hull, East Yorkshire

Welcome, Andrew

Have you driven an Austin Seven yet? If not, there is a steep learning curve, but don't be put off. There is lots of advice on this, and other, sites.

Austin Sevens are not high tech, and your car has survived far less discriminating owners than yourself. I use Halfords "classic" oil and rainwater in mine when I can, all sorts of other stuff if I cannot. I use engine oil in the gearbox, and in the back axle as well if I don't have the right lubricant handy.

You need Whitworth/BSF spanners, there are plenty about, car boot sales if you don't want to buy new. I bought a set of new sockets from my local car parts shop, just to be posh.

I like to be sure the bits that need grasing get greased, or oiled as required, properly. So I swap the period nipples for modern ones, and use a modern gun.
You can get a proper connection that way, and be fairly sure the grase has got to where it should.

And then, because I like the old look, I swap them back again.

The best advice, though, is join a club, go to a meeting, and get some buddies.
You will have advice and help coming out of your ears after the first five minutes. And probably the offer of some spanners, as well.

Cheers

Simon

Location: On a hill in Wiltshire

Thanks, Simon. Good to hear from you.
I had my first solo drive yesterday, and today had a longer run. Find the gear-changes much easier than expected, with only occasional crunches between mostly smooth changes. Will take some time to feel when to change gear. I think the most challenging part of the drive is the steering. Seems like a battle against the steering wheel, though I suspect that's because I'm so used to power-steering these days!
I'll see if I can get the oil you suggest, and I really need to get a grease-gun so I can keep everything suitably lubricated regularly.
I've clearly got a lot to learn, so we'll see how it goes!
All the best,
Andrew

Location: Hull, East Yorkshire

I have recently got a conventional Seven, having owned a Special for over 40 years. Steering and stopping are the two main problems, with being the one holding up all the traffic the third.

Stopping, everybody seems to agree, can be acceptable if everything is working well. I use the gears more than the brakes, at all times, and then steer for the nearside when all else fails.
Steering is always interesting, but when I showed the "new" car to some proper experts they thought there wasn't enough castor angle, and I fitted a couple of 1/16" washers between the radius rods and the front axle which have made a huge difference.

Which is what I mean about face to face advice being the one thing you really need.

Cheers

Simon

Location: On a hill in Wiltshire

SAE30 is the recommended oil for both engine and gearbox, but Classic 20W50 will do fine in either.
Rear axle should be filled with SAE 140.
I use off the shelf ready to use coolant/antifreeze in the radiator. (the green stuff)

A7 steering takes some getting used to as the car has a tendency to roll oversteer when cornering due to the rear suspension arrangement. Some steering slack is usual and best advice is not to try and grip the wheel too tightly but allow the car to find its own way, giving a helpful hand when needed.

In the days to come you'll be able to go over it with a fine tooth comb to iron out any foibles. However, accept it for what is is and don't expect it to go, stop or steer like a modern.

Properly set up your RP should be able to cruise along on the level at 40-45mph but don't expect much when you come to an uphill gradient. 25mph in 3rd is the norm unless you've got a tweaked engine.

For tools, find yourself a 1/4, 3/16ths and 5/16ths Whitworth spanners, open ended and/or ring and you'll not go far wrong for starters.

Post a photo when you can

Enjoy!

Location: Gard, France 30960. Used to be Languedoc-Roussillon but now it's Occitanie

Welcome to the world of Austin Sevens Andrew. As you can see, we are a friendly and helpful bunch and many people can offer good advice. Happy motoring!
Brian

Location: Near M1 Jtn 28

Thanks guys, it's great to hear from you all and receive such great advice from your experience.
I guess another question I have is regarding a folding luggage rack - basically where I can get a reproduction one if that's the norm, and if there is any advice about how to fit it (Hoping I can get a local garage fit it), and also suggestions about fitting a waist seatbelt in the back. Thanks again for all your responses. I'd like post a pic of my Seven, but it seems to be very complicated.

Location: Hull, East Yorkshire

Evan's waterless coolant is best.......no water = no corrosion and no blocked radiator from corrosion material circulation...bit expensive and a bit of faff pre-cleaning etc but long term worth it...studs that stick into water jacket will no longer corrode etc.
There are available BSF/Whitworth socket sets, but mostly open ended and ring spanners can be used. Auto-jumble and rallies are where you caan find stalls with such things and old spanners BSF/WHITWORTH.

Detergent less oil only recommended because old engine likely to have oil ways lined with crud which would clean off and get to places it should not and so do damage. Bear in mind there is no fine oil filter on the 7 unless someone has done a modification to fit a modern spin on can filter....very worthwhile.
You need to read up on oils to get the full picture. Oil chemistry has come a long way since the days of A7. 20W/50 is pretty thick and power sapping (Power? A7?) My V6 3 lit Scimitar was recommended as 20W/50 in the early 80s but as one of our, research engineer, Scim club members said "it is now only really ok for your clapped out lawn mower"!
I am about to do an oil change after running in timing gears and will be using 0W/40 but I also use Synionic Anti Friction Metal Treatment (AFMT) added to my oil (started life called Prolong in USA and proven by SINTEF lab and MIRAS). Have used it for last 45,000 in the eng, gbox and axle. I will be using fully synthetic oil....but bear in mind the Scim also has a modern filter.
Happy reading.

Dennis

Location: West Devon

[quote="Slack Alice" Simon]
Steering is always interesting, but when I showed the "new" car to some proper experts they thought there wasn't enough castor angle, and I fitted a couple of 1/16" washers between the radius rods and the front axle which have made a huge difference.

Which is what I mean about face to face advice being the one thing you really need.

Cheers

Simon[/quote]

Really there also needs to be a wedge between chassis and front spring mount so that spring ends are not being twisted which would cause quicker wear in the shackles/pins.
More reading up in the various books available on the 7. Remove one shock absorber shackle and put shock arm direct onto axle....method/description in books.

Dennis

Location: West Devon

Hi Andrew, Do not use Waterless Coolant in an Austin Seven.
Some of the reasons for not are
only has thermo siphon no pump
no thermostat
temps run Hotter
Flash point is between 110 and 130c
most motor racing Circuits will not allow its Use

Stick to water
Cheers Colin

Location: TINOPAI NZ

This is what you will find, Andrew - less than a dozen replies and already some conflicting advice.

And advice as how to things properly.

I try to balance doing things correctly with being able to drive to the shops when I want to.

The Austin 7 has as many facets as there are owners - there are the racing ones which are properly engineered, "originality" ones with everything correct and in the right place, ones that are just transport, specials which are an outlet for the imagination, and so on.

All part of the fun, lifes rich tapestry and all that.

Simon

Location: On a hill in Wiltshire

Hi Andrew,
Not long an RP owner myself.
Simon is right there seem to be as many conflicting pearls of wisdom as there are owners!
I remember when Castrol R was available from my local garage but now even bog standard oil has become a specialist item.
Which Oil by Richard Michell is a good read if you want to find out more about oil, it’s properties and use in classic cars.
It is important to use non-detergent oil as Dennis N points out. I use 30 in the engine 40 in the gearbox and 140 in the axle.
We could arrange to meet up for a pint with the RPs around Brandesburton or Lund if you fancy a run out sometime.
Cheers, Roger

Location: Up the road from Hull

The above comments reinforce the need for basic introductory guide to Seven owners, free of pet complicating notions (but mentioning steering arms!).

The book “Which Oil” seems to be about the only one of the type available now. I dont think the author is an oil development engineer or chemist, more a moderately clued enthusiast. His oil change recommendation are absurdly conservative, esp for warm Oz. He is obsessed with static viscosities and time stability of, but completely ignores the question of instant viscosity under high shear of non synthetic multigrades. (The possible case for 30 in racing engines, and probably the real reason for use in Porsches)

Has anyone clearly established that current oils in an old jet fed engine with cleaned sump lead to trouble? I have seen many laid up moderns from the 60s with heavy sump sludge and presumably elsewhere but no problems, despite many tiny oil holes in rockers, rapid oil flow etc. It seems a waste to chase about and pay a premium for an SA or SB oil of 1940s spec of the sort with which engines wore out in 30,000 miles, when API SG or better is available at the nearest supermarket.

As mentioned a problem with Sevens is that there is so much info available it needs a considerable degree of expertise to sort the wheat from the chaff so is only confusing to the present day newcomer.

The comment that thick oils sap power is very true. My car on straight 50 in cold Wellington southerlies could not attain top gear! 20W50 is a long way from 20 and notably thick at normal temps. The static viscosity charts in the book interesting (but when comparing watch for changing scales). The author overlooks that fact that noise and leakage often factors in choice of oil, not wear.

Pressure loadings in a stock Seven very modest cf moderns

Location: Auckland, NZ