My AG tourer is fitted with a sidedraught 26VA carburettor with the number P (B?) 5163 on the flat surface by the inlet. This carb has the engine side bowl mounting screw going into a stripped carb bowl body, The square head slotted screws are in ok condition...about .005" difference on the thread crest dimension
Another (different pattern...later I think) 26VA came with the car (marked 26VA AU7 on the flat face and 1.5 on a vertical face on the body of the carb). It has a stripped thread on the opposite (engine cover) side!...and a coarse threaded screw with a home made "blade" head on it on the other!
Questions.
1. Does anyone have a float chamber bowl with decent threads? At first sight the chambers appear the same, but what do I know!
2. This has to be a common problem, is there a successful way of restoring the threads in the cast bowl? oversize screws? Thread inserts? Anyone do a kit/repair service?
David Harrison

I think it is a common problem.

I am sure one of our "cherished suppliers" or a club spares shed will have a spare.

I have interchanged bowls with no problems, but from the serial nos. you may have different models of the same carb - check the jet sizes are the same.

I believe the threads are metric, if you use inserts.

I have had at least one bowl where the threads went right through, so if really stuck the bowl could be held on by a smaller diameter long bolt with a nut on the end!

Simon

Location: On a hill in Wiltshire

That's an idea! I do have two bowls after all! Threads I will check...Zenith had French roots as far as I remember. It surprises me that there are no gaskets on the float chamber, just a good fit with two bolts at one end!
I will check the jets...the car hasn't run for many years so I'll start off with the ones that are on the car!
A bit to do before I start it up though....haven't even looked at the ignition side yet!
D

I have come across the odd carb with a gasket at the top joint, but never used one myself.

There doesn't seem to be a problem with fuel leakage if the level is correct.

Sometimes it is worth facing off bowl and carb on a bit of fime wet and dry paper on a flat surface, there can be corrosion or dents to take out.

I never do th bolts up very tight, using a screwdriver usually. They don't need it.

Cheers.

Simon

Location: On a hill in Wiltshire

Good morning. The float chamber threads are 7mm (not to be confused with 5/16" which were fitted to Fords), many float chambers have been damaged by forcing 5/16" bolts into 7mm threads.
Inserts are available and a straight-forward repair.
There are two patterns of float chamber - one with two exposed 'tubes' at the bottom, these fit carb bodies with two 'tubes' adjacent to the air screw. The other type is rather larger, has a flat bottom and is used with the body that has only one 'tube' adjacent to the air screw.
Regards
Stuart

Location: Staffordshire - the creative county

As Stuart says, it's a very straighforward job and takes no longer than 20 minutes. The kit will cost about 30 quid max, but the result is a much stronger result and 'fit and forget' as well. I've now done all my 26VA float chambers (and a few more) and wish I'd done it years earlier.

Good luck
Bob

Location: St Tudy North Cornwall not far from Alastair

Thanks to you all.
Found an M7x1.0 kit (drill bit, break-tang tool, twist key(?) Hex key & tap) on fleabay for £7.99....ok unboxed! but with 20 inserts in it, so send me your 26 VA bowls for me to practice on or modify!!!
No, don't, on thinking about it!
David

The kit worked well & the carb is together, getting closer to a start up attempt! Core plugs replaced....now to flush the Rad & block, put in some water (see if it stays in!) and oil (ditto!) and a drop of petrol (ditto!)Hot wire the ignition & see if there is a spark....fingers crossed!
David