I have found in the past a good way to remove such things as A/seven drop arms or track rod end on other cars in fact anything on a taper by giving it a good sharp hit on the side of the drop arm in line with the centre of the tapered hole (not the threads or centre) This creates shock vibrations which release it from the tapered shaft. Sometimes a bit of leverage is requires at the same time as the hammer blow with something like a tyre lever or piece of bar.

John Mason

Location: Nottinghamshire

Many thanks for the help and advice i will make a start and report my findings
about head office tells me it will have to be after our holiday,again many thanks
Dan

Location: Essex

Location: Suffolk

Re tight steering just a little more info on the car it's registered as an
Austin Felix I think it started life as a Ruby and there is a reference in the
paperwork to year of manufacture 1934.at sometime in late 50s it was converted
to a 2 seat sports it seems the engine has been modified valves camb carb etc
A cross flow Speedex rad with (now) electric pump modified front axle and so on.
the bodywork is steel tube and an Ali skin and a Pram Hood. It's undergoing a
FULL re build with new Ali skin and so on and so on I hope to finish it before the oil runs out Dan

Location: Essex

Have now replaced the gear box after freeing of the clutch but. I am concerned at
how little pressure is required on the clutch lever to release the clutch what sort of pressure should it need ? Any help please

If you have a light clutch which functions correctly when engaged be thankful! In my limited experience the Austin 7 clutch can be an bit of a b**ger to depress and has very little take-up travel.

Location: Ripon

Thanks Duncan that sounds like good news Dan