Here's a tip: When I fitted the frame to the roof I used a countersunk brass bolt and nut at the rearmost fixing to pull the frame down tight. The bolt passed through to the underside of the inboard wood section. I wasn't happy to rely on the several wood screws to bend the frame down. Checking the centres of these screws is another item to note if you are viewing another car
Ron

Location: Thornbury

Roger, would you mind if I pinch those sun roof details for the RP Pinterest site?

Location: Near Bicester.

Ivor,

No problem the more pictures the better if it helps to rebuild cars.
I have found them all very helpfull.

Roger

Location: Haverfordwest

Hi Ron,

Thanks for the tips about bolting the frame in place.
Do you have any more advice, particulaly about fitting the Vinyl to the roof, how do you join the separate bits and what sealant do you advise.
What is the best way to treat the corner where it is folded underneath?

Regards

Roger

Location: Haverfordwest

Thanks Roger, will do!

Location: Near Bicester.

Hi Roger,
You are stretching my memory a bit on this one as it is some 40 years since I sorted out the roof on my RP. As you will have gathered, the covered steel and wood frame is dropped down as a completed item on to the 1 5/8" plate as shown in Sandy's sketch. I had the steel strip, shown in blue, screwed directly on to the 13/16 x 13/16 section (Sandy's sketch suggests that the padding and hessian are trapped between the steel and wood).
Wrongly I placed a thin aluminium sheet in lieu of hessian and 1/8" thick foam sheet in lieu of padding - only did it this way because of what was easily available -but it has worked! The foam and ally were taken to the outside edge of the steel frame. The vinyl however was continued around and underneath the steel strip and tacked into the side of the 13/16" section - round about K in the sketch. I was strongly advised to ensure the vinyl was warmed when fitting, so the job was done in front of a 3 bar electric fire. This ensures a good taughtness thereafter. I assume I trimmed most of the material away at the corners to get a mitred overlap. The sealant was Dumdum but only where the completed frame met up with the car body; no sealant was used elsewhere. A Sikoflex sealant is probably what others would use today. I expect someone will post a note on the right stuff. email me if you want clarification or a bit more info

Ron

Location: Thornbury

Slightly off track, I redid my Ruby sunroof back in the 70s, It had been totally sealed up as had the windscreen with putty! I also used aluminium sheet as it was available from old Trident's wings. The problem I had was that having stood in traffic, in rain, the first time braking after that doused the back of my neck with cold water.
Has any one successfully solved this, I imagine an RP would be similar.
I envisage a very soft 'L' shaped flange fitted to the rear of the sliding part of the roof.
Any thoughts please.

Location: Cloudy Wirral

As shown in Rogers third photo, there are two long rectagular holes in the side rail, and there is a return on the cross piece also to discourage water surging into the car, and finally a lot of the sunroofs I've seen and worked on had a rubber piece like a wiper blade pointing downwards to within a 1mm of the fixed roof area.

Location: ....listening to Al Bowley - Heaven.....

Hi Ian,

Thought you may like these to add these to you collection.
Not mine but taken of another RP near me as part of my research into what I am aiming to achieve.

Roger

Location: Haverfordwest, Pembs.

Thanks for the heads up Roger, I've posted these detail shots on the RP Pinterest site...I know for one, that I'm going to need them!

Location: Near Bicester.

Photos from Roger's post above:

Roger